Giraffe Beanie with Earflaps

By JC Designs

Frog Beanie being model of by one of my son's stuff animal. :)

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
newborn - 18 months old

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 5.0mm & 5.5mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Yellow (107yds) and Beige (30yds)
*2 medium Black Buttons
*Felt: yellow
*Stitch Markers
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread

GAUGE
  At the end of round 9, laying flat = 4 ¾ inches in diameter. Don’t forget to check your gauge. :)

PATTERN NOTES
  Their's no need to slip stitch and/or chain when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

SHAPING THE BEANIE yellow with the 5.5mm hook
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
Sizes 6-12 months:
  Rnd 10:  sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (60)
  Rnd 11: sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc around (66)
Sizes 12-18 months:
   Rnd 12: sc in next 10sc, 2sc in next sc around (72)
   Rnd 13: sc in next 11sc, 2sc in next sc around (78)
All Sizes:
  Rnd 12-22 (14-24): sc in each sc around (66 or 78)
Place marker at 21 & 49 sc (24 & 55). F/O and weave in ends.

SHAPE EARFLAPS yellow with the 5.5mm hook
  Row 1: Join the yarn at first marker with sl st, ch1, sc in next 11sc, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 2: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 8sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 3: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 4: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 5: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 6: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 7: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 8: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 9: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 10: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 11: dec over next 2sc twice (2)
F/O and weave in ends.
Join yarn at the second marker with sl st. Repeat above for the second earflap.

CONTRAST EDGING beige with 5.5mm hook
Join CC at any st along the edge with sl st. Sc around the entire edge including the earflaps.
F/O and weave in ends.

let's call this the MOUTH piece beige with the 5.0mm hook
  Rnd 1: 4sc in Magic Ring, ch1, turn (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next sc, ch1, turn (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next 2sc, ch1, turn (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next 3sc, ch1, turn (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next 4sc, ch1, turn (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around, ch1, turn (16)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around, ch1, turn (20)
F/O and weave in ends.

EARS (make 2) yellow with the 5.0mm hook
  Rnd 1: 4sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (14)
  Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (14)
F/O and weave in ends.

HORNS (make 2) beige with the 5.0mm hook
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (9)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (9)
  Rnd 5: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (6)
  Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (6)
 F/O and weave in ends. Stuff moderately.

BRAIDS
Cut 18 pieces of yarn (9  for each earflap) about 30 inches long. Fold each bunch in half and push the folded end through an opening in the bottom of each earflap. Pull the unfolded ends through the loop and pull tight. Braid the strands and tie a knot to secure the braid. Complete the second braid the same way.


ASSEMBLY
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  Sew the mouth piece in the bottom center part of the beanie. The buttons are sewn three rows up the mouth piece and 2" apart.
   Ears are sewn on top 3.5" apart and the bottom of the ears are folded to give them the bent look. The horns are sewn in the center of the ears.
  Nostrils are made from yellow felt and glue in place or sewn.

- Janet Carrillo

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (December 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Agent P from Phineas and Ferb

  I had been searching for patterns for Perry as Agent P, Phineas and Ferb to make for my son. I came upon this seller in etsy.com; WigglyFrog. When I saw how amazing her amigurumis look; I knew I had to buy the patterns. But I never purchased patterns before so I decide to buy Agent P first and see how well the pattern was written. I found the pattern to be over all amazing since its well explain and it also has several images to guide you through when assembling him. Love it. :) Will definitely buy the Phineas and Ferb patterns later in the future.
  Phineas and Ferb is our favorite cartoon. Perry...well he's our absolutely favorite character out of them all. I thought that this plushie will be a great Christmas gift for my little boy. I had to make him while he was in school so he wouldn't ask "what are you making?".

- Janet Carrillo

Flowery Beanie

By JC Designs

Navy blue with Beige

  Recently my sister and I started our own little store selling clothes. I thought since the weather is starting to get cooler I could make some beanies and sell them. I'm going to start off by making two beanies and if they sell then I'll make more in various colors.

  This is a really simple beanie that even a beginner could handle. You can make it in a solid color or change colors after every round to make stripes. :)

SIZE
3-5 years old

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4.5mm
*Crochet hook size 5.0mm
*Worsted weight yarn: main color 50grs.
*Worsted weight yarn: contrasting color approx. 18yds
*1 medium Button
*Stitch Markers

GAUGE
  At the end of round 8, laying flat = 6 inches in diameter. Don’t forget to check your gauge. :)

PATTERN NOTES
  This beanie is crochet in continuous rounds. Do not sl st at the end of rounds.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

BEANIE (main color) 5.0mm hook
  Rnd 1: 7hdc in Magic Ring (7)
  Rnd 2: 2hdc in each hdc around (14)
  Rnd 3: hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (21)
  Rnd 4: hdc in next 2hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (28)
  Rnd 5: hdc in next 3hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (35)
  Rnd 6: hdc in next 4hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (42)
  Rnd 7: hdc in next 5hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (49)
  Rnd 8: hdc in next 6hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (56)
  Rnd 9-14: hdc in each hdc around (56)
  Rnd 15: sc in each hdc around (56)
  Rnd 16-20: sc in each sc around (56)
  Rnd 21: sl st all around (56)
F/O, secure and weave in ends.

FLOWER (starting with contrasting color) 4.5mm hook

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around, join by sl st to first sc (8)

  Rnd 3: (ch 2, sl st in next sc) repeat all around then join round with sl st (8 chain spaces)

  Rnd 4: in each chain space make... sl st, ch 1, 2dc, ch 1, sl st. Complete the round with sl st into the first sl st (8 petals)

F/O, secure and weave in ends. Change to main color.

  Rnd 5: Holding flower facing you, take your hook to the back of the work & insert it in the first chain made in round 3. Make sl st in the chain, ch3, sl st in the first chain underneath the next petal. Repeat 7 times & complete the round with sl st into first sl st (8 chain spaces)

 Rnd 6: into each ch sp make... sc, ch 1, 3tr, ch 1, sc. Complete round with sl st into first sc. (8 petals)

F/O, secure and weave in ends. Change to contrasting color.

  Rnd 7: just like in round 5 take your hook to the back of the work and sl st in the fist post of the first petal created in round 5, ch 4, sl st in next post. Repeat 7 times & complete the round with sl st into first sl st (8 chain spaces)

  Rnd 8: in each ch sp make... sc, ch 1, 5tr, ch1, sc. Complete the round with sl st into first sc.

F/O, secure and weave in ends.

- Janet Carrillo

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (December 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Mary-Jane Slippers

I wanted to take this picture without my socks since I ♥ my tattoo. I wanted to show it off. :)

  I haven't made myself anything in awhile. Since its starting to get cold, I decide to make myself some slippers. If my feet are not well cover when its cold my right leg starts hurting cause I hurt my leg when I was 15yrs. old while playing soccer.
  I search slippers in Ravelry and found these real cute ones; the Mary-Jane Slippers. They're real easy to make even a beginner could crochet these. Each slipper is made in one piece, so there are no seams and its done in single crochet. I finish mine in about an hour. I absolutely love them that I'm going to be making a few more pairs for myself and some for my sister since she love them as well. :)

- Janet Carrillo

Yoshi Beanie (knit)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

Yellow Yoshi from New Super Mario Bros. Wii

  My other nephew ask me to make him a beanie but with Yoshi. I decide to create a pattern for it since I found none and well here it is for you to make. (Note: I made the pattern today. I still haven't made the beanie so theirs no picture but once I finish it I would uploaded here. Picture up.)
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterwards; the choice is yours. (I duplicate stitch mine. It's really simple to do.)

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
age 5 - adult

MATERIALS
*Double pointed Needles: 3.0mm & 3.75mm
*50g of Main Color (worsted weight)
*Small amounts of the following (worsted weight): Green, White, Black,Orange & Red
*Tapestry Needle

Link to PDF File

Note: The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Hope you enjoy your new beanie. ☺
- Janet Carrillo

Yoshi and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (November 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Frog Mario Beanie (knit)

By JC Designs

  Just a few days ago I finish knitting this Bowser Beanie for my son. It was my second knitting project, I think it looks amazing. One of my nephews saw my son's Bowser beanie and ask me to make him a beanie but with Frog Mario from Super Mario Bros. 3. I decide to create a pattern for it since I found none and well here it is for you to make. (Note: I made the pattern today. I still haven't made the beanie so theirs no picture but once I finish it I would uploaded here. Picture up.)
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterwards; the choice is yours. (I duplicate stitch mine. It's really simple to do.)

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
age 5 - adult

MATERIALS
*Double pointed Needles: 3.0mm & 3.75mm
*50g of Main Color (worsted weight)
*Small amounts of the following (worsted weight): Green, White, Black, Beige
*Tapestry Needle

Link to PDF File

Note: The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Hope you enjoy your new beanie. ☺
- Janet Carrillo

Frog Mario and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (November 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Frog Beanie with Earflaps

By JC Designs

Frog Beanie being model of by one of my son's stuff animal. :)

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
newborn - 18 months old

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 5.5mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Light Green (50g), Dark Green, White
*Felt: Black
*Stitch Markers
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread

PATTERN NOTES
  Their's no need to chain when going to the next round.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

SHAPING THE BEANIE
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
Sizes 6-12 months:
  Rnd 10:  sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (60)
  Rnd 11: sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc around (66)
Sizes 12-18 months:
   Rnd 12: sc in next 10sc, 2sc in next sc around (72)
   Rnd 13: sc in next 11sc, 2sc in next sc around (78)
All Sizes:
  Rnd 10-20 (12-22) (14-24): sc in each sc around (54 or 66 or 78)
Place marker at  16 and 35 sc (21 & 49) (24 & 55). F/O and weave in ends.

SHAPE EARFLAPS
  Row 1: Join the yarn at first marker with sl st, ch1, sc in next 11sc, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 2: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 8sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 3: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 4: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 5: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 6: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 7: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 8: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 9: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 10: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 11: dec over next 2sc twice (2)
F/O and weave in ends.
Join yarn at the second marker with sl st. Repeat above for the second earflap.

CONTRAST EDGING
Join CC at any st along the edge with sl st. Sc around the entire edge including the earflaps. F/O and weave in ends.

EYES: light green (make 2)
  Rnd 1: 8sc in Magic Ring (8)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (16)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 4: sl st around (24)
F/O and weave in ends.

White part of the eye: (make 2)
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
F/O and weave in ends.

BRAIDS
Cut 18 pieces of yarn (9 for each earflap) about 30 inches long. Fold each bunch in half and push the folded end through an opening in the bottom of each earflap. Pull the unfolded ends through the loop and pull tight. Braid the strands and tie a knot to secure the braid. Complete the second braid the same way.


ASSEMBLY
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  Sew the white part of the eye to the green one. Black circle is cut out of felt and its glue on or sewn in place. Place the eyes on top of the beanie. Space them 3" apart from each other.

- Janet Carrillo

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (November 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Bowser amigurumi

This particular Bowser is modeled off of the more recent version of Bowser (Super Mario Bros. Wii)

  My son been asking me to make him Bowser. Plus I had to make him since he's the main evil guy in the Mario Bros. series. I had been searching for him for months and found some amazing Bowser’s but no patterns for them. I was going to try to make him myself but I found two patterns for him in Ravelry. I decided to make Shelly Hedko's pattern since it look way better. She did an amazing job designing it.
  Assembling the pieces together was a bit complicate it since theirs so many pieces to keep track of. She doesn't go into much detail on how to assemble him. (At the moment though, she's  making another Bowser so she can take pictures of it as she assembles him and put then in her blog.) But since I been making amigurumis since I started crocheting; I eventually figure it out. I did modify the pattern a bit since some pieces (body and belly) I found them to be too small but overall it's amazing pattern. If you been looking for a Bowser pattern this is the one to make. Here's the link to it.
  I just love how he turn out. My son absolutely loves him, he's his new favorite stuff toy.

- Janet Carrillo

Hello Kitty amigurumis as center pieces

  About a month or so ago I made some Hello Kitty's for a friend. She had seen some of the stuff that I crochet for my son on Facebook and had ask me if I could make her 8 Hello Kitty's. She wanted to use them as center pieces for her daughters 4th birthday. So I made them for her.
  Today I log into Facebook and noticed that yesterday was her daughters birthday and she had put pictures up. I wanted to share with everyone one of the pictures of the center pieces.

I made the Hello Kitty's and she place her in these box thingys she made.

- Janet Carrillo

New name & layout

  I decide to change the name of my blog, it's still going to be about crocheting. I wasn't happy with the name "Janet's Crochet Goods & more..."  When I started my blog I had so many cute names that I wanted to name it. Once I started googling every single one of them to see if they where available; I came to find out that they where all already taken.
  Today I decide to ask the people of Ravelry to help me out choose a name and thistlecreek came up with the name "damn it Janet, let's crochet".   I thought it was cute. It reminded me of when I was in high school. My sister and some of my friends will always say to me damn it Janet cause of the movie "Rocky Horror Picture Show". I thought that name suited me well. Thanks thistlecreek for helping me out.
  While I was changing the name I thought I'll give it a new look. I hope you enjoy my blog.

- Janet Carrillo

Petey Piranha from Mario Bros.

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 13"height

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 4mm (G)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Red (80yds), Light Green (35yds), Yellow (18yds) & Orange (7yds)

*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Felt: Black & White
*Fiberfill
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There's no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first sc, not on top of the chain 1.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Chain 2 Picot Stitch - ch2, insert hook into the 2nd chain from hook, y/o & draw up the yarn through all the loops.

Other side of the foundation chains - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Triple Crochet (tr) - Y/O hook twice, insert hook into stitch & pull up a loop (4 loops remaining), Y/O hook & pull thru 2 loops (3 loops remaining), Y/O hook & pull thru 2 loops (2 loops remaining, Y/O hook & pull thru the 2 remaining loops.

HEAD with red

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next st around (18)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (30)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (36)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (42)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st around (48)

  Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next st around (54)

  Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st around (60)

  Rnd 11-12: sc in each st around (60)

  Rnd 13: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog around (54)

  Rnd 14: sc in each st around (54)

  Rnd 15: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog around (48)

  Rnd 16-18: sc in each st around (48)

  Rnd 19: working in the back loops for this rnd only sc2tog around (24)

  Rnd 20: sc in each st around (24)

  Rnd 21: sc2tog  around (12)

Start stuffing the head moderately firm.

  Rnd 22: sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 23: sc2tog around (6)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the head. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

LIPS with white, make 2

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (6)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (8)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (10)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (12)

  Rnd 6-17: sc in each st around (12)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.

 Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog around (10) 

 Rnd 19: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog around (8)

 Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog around (6)

 Rnd 21: sc in next st, sc2tog around (4)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the lips. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

Note: when you see a + sign it means all those stitches are supposed to be done in that one particular stitch.
PETALS starting with yellow

We are going to be working between rounds 11 and 12 from the headpiece to make the petals. Attach the yarn in any spot between rounds 11 and 12. Tried to do this as tightly as possible, we do not want the loops to be too loosely.

*sl st into the 1st stitch, ch4, sl st into the 5th st*

Repeat this process above until you reach the 1st st and sl st into that 1st sl st to create that final loop (12 4ch loop)

  Rnd 1: sc+hdc+dc+3tr+dc+hdc+sc in each 4ch space, in the last stitch change to orange

  Rnd 2: sl st in next 3 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next 6 sts* repeat from * to *

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

BODY staring with red

  Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (32)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (40)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (48)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (56)

  Rnd 8-13: sc in each st around in the last stitch change to light green (56)

  Rnd 14: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog around (48)

  Rnd 15: sc in each st around (48)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.

  Rnd 16: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog around (40)

  Rnd 17: sc in each st around (40)

  Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog around (32)

  Rnd 19-20: sc in each st around (32)

  Rnd 21: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog around (24)

  Rnd 22-25: sc in each st around (24)

  Rnd 26: sc in next st, sc2tog around (16)

  Rnd 27-32: sc in each st around (16)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the body nicely.

LEGS with light green, make 2

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (6)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (8)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (10)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (12)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (14)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st around (16)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next st around (18)

  Rnd 9: sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st around (20)

  Rnd 10: sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in next st around (22)

  Rnd 11-12: sc in each st around (22)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

LEAVES/ARMS with light green; make 2

  Rnd 1: ch16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, tr in next 5 chs, dc in next ch, hdc in next 2 chs, 2sc in next ch other side of the foundation chains hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next ch, tr in next 5 chs, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 2 chs, sc in next 2 chs, sl st into 1st st (30)

  Rnd 2: *sc in same st you sl st, ch2 picot, sc in same st, sl st in next 2sts, hdc in next st, ch2 picot, hdc in the same st* repeat from * to *, in the last one you won't be able to sl st twice just sl st once.

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
     TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.

     HEAD & LIPS...the decreased section of the head goes in the front. Using black felt, cut out a circle. Glue or sew it in place. Place the lips around the black felt.

     HEAD to BODY...sew them together.

     LEGS...if you haven't already stuff them and place them at the bottom of the body.

     LEAVES...place them on the side of the body, in the position you like best.

     SPOTS...using white felt, cut out a few circles and place them around the head.

     TEETH...using white felt, cut out triangles and place them inside the lips.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet || rnd: round

sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es

tr: triple crochet || y/o: yarn over

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Petey Piranha and Mario Brothers are copyrighted by Nintendo
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (October 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Piranha Plant from Mario Bros.

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 11.5"height

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 4mm (G)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Red (49yds), Light Green (130yds), Black (32yds) & White (30yds)

*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Felt: Black & White
*Fiberfill

*Pipe Cleaners

*Beans/Pebbles
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There's no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first sc, not on top of the chain 1.


HEAD with red

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next st around (18)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (30)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (36)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (42)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st around (48)

  Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next st around (54)

  Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st around (60)

  Rnd 11-12: sc in each st around (60)

  Rnd 13: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog around (54)

  Rnd 14: sc in each st around (54)

  Rnd 15: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog around (48)

  Rnd 16-18: sc in each st around (48)

  Rnd 19: working in the back loops for this rnd only sc2tog around (24)

  Rnd 20: sc in each st around (24)

  Rnd 21: sc2tog  around (12)

Start stuffing the head moderately firm.

  Rnd 22: sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 23: sc2tog around (6)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the head. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

LIPS with white, make 2

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (6)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (8)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (10)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (12)

  Rnd 6-17: sc in each st around (12)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.

 Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog around (10) 

 Rnd 19: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog around (8)

 Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog around (6)

 Rnd 21: sc in next st, sc2tog around (4)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the lips. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

PIPE with light green

  Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (32)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (40)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (48)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (56)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st around (64)

  Rnd 9: working in back loops for this rnd only sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog around (56)

  Rnd 10-22: sc in each st around (56)

  Rnd 23: working in front loops for this rnd only sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog around (48)

  Rnd 24-26: sc in each st around (48)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

STEM with light green

  Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 4: working in back loops for this rnd only sc in next st, sc2tog around (16)

  Rnd 5-26: sc in each st around (16)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

LET'S CALL THIS SOIL with black

  Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (32)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (40)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (48)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (56)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

LEAVES with light green, make 2

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (8)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (10)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (12)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (14)

  Rnd 6-15: sc in each st around (14)

At this point, you can add 4 pipe cleaners inside the leave. Cut them to the desired length and glue them in place. The pipe cleaners will help bend the leaves nicely.

  Rnd 16: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog around (12)

  Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog around (10)

  Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog around (8)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.


ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
     TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
     PIPE...fill the pipe halfway with beans/pebbles and the rest with fiberfill but leave about half an inch for the soil.

     SOIL...place it inside the pipe and sew it in place.

     STEM...you will need to put something sturdy inside it to help it stay upright and/or bend it. I placed several pipe cleaners inside and stuff the rest with fiberfill. Place the stem in the center of the soil.

     LEAVES...flatten them out and place pipe cleaners inside to help you bend them in the position you like best. Place them on the side of the stem.

     HEAD & LIPS...the decreased section of the head goes in the front. Using black felt, cut out a circle. Glue or sew it in place. Place the lips around the black felt.

     HEAD to the STEM...sew the stem to the center of the head. Once sewn you can bend the stem in the position you like best.

     SPOTS...using white felt, cut out a few circles and place them around the head.

     TEETH...using white felt, cut out triangles and place them inside the lips.

GLOSSARY:

f/o: finish off || rnd: round || sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || st/s: stitch/es

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook fan page.

Or to follow our Instagram page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Piranha Plant and Mario Bros. are copyrighted by Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (October 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Tunisian Crochet Mario Pillow

MATERIALS
•Tunisian Crochet hook size 4.5mm
•DK weight yarn
•Tapestry needle
•Fiberfill
•Measuring tape


* First Tunisian Crochet Project *
  Thanks to Another Kay Jones for inspiring this project. I had already made my son a Mario blanket and thought this will go great with it. Plus I let my son pick out the characters he wanted, so he's going to love it when it's done. :) I'm going to be making him another pillow but with different Mario characters so he can have two.
  I made the charts on Microsoft Excel except for Goomba, I copied that one from Another Kay Jones and the others from doing a Google search and making them into 8-bit graphs. If you want to use different characters, there are plenty to be found on the web by searching for 8-bit Mario characters or anything along those lines.
  When working from these graphs you gotta keep in mind that one square equals one stitch, the amount of stitches you need on your hook needs to be one more than the amount of squares you need.

Ex: On the small graphs theirs 32 so I need to chain 33 stitches.

  Since I don’t know how to add Microsoft Excel files on here, I have just put the images up. If you would like me to e-mail you the Excel files, feel free to contact me. (Links on how to contact me are on the upper left hand side).
  To save on sewing (which I’m not great at), I made the character squares two at a time, so I crocheted the Goomba and Boo as one piece, with the color change half way, then I did the Blooper and Bomb-Omb as one piece. Then whip stitch the two pieces together. I use whip stitch when sewing the whole pillow together.

A site and videos on how to Tunisian Crochet
-An Introduction to Tunisian Crochet; it has images to show you how to while your reading. Great site, this is the one I use to learn.
-If your more of a video person rather than reading then this video is great for you.
-To bind off your work watch this video.
-For color changes watch this video.

Tips
-On the basics tutorial video, it says for the last stitch of the forward pass, put the hook through the two end stitches. Cause if you don't and when its time to sew them together the edges are gonna look holey. Just in case this happens to you. Simply use the same color thread and sew it so it wont look so obvious.
-On the color changes, don’t pull the threads too tight. If you’re doing a square with a lot of color changes start a new yarn thread cause if you keep pulling them the square its gonna get smaller as you continue making it. (This happen to me with the first square)
-Measure! Measure! Measure! You don't want your square to look uneven.

8-bit Graphs
  Go ahead and use the graphs if you want these characters. :)

Boo 32x32

Bomb-Omb 32x32

Blooper 32x32

Super Mushroom 64x64

- Janet Carrillo

Stitch Markers

  These stitch markers are a fun alternative to plain old stitch markers. They are a fun project to add some fun to your project or as a gift for a crocheter/knitter you know. Like jewelry for your crocheting/knitting! =) Plus this isn’t too difficult or time consuming.

Materials
•Leverback Earrings (crochet) or Split Rings (knitting)
•Head Pins (2 inches in length)
•An assortment of Beads
•Round-nosed Pliers
•Wire Cutters

  I went to this store where they sell only beads and all the accessories needed to make bracelets, necklaces, earrings, keychains, etc. I have past by this store several times before when I gone to ModaTelas (where I buy yarn) but never when in. Today I check it out and WOW! they have a HUGE selection of beads. While I was browsing, I decide to buy some materials to make stitch markers.

  Only cost me $85MXN ($6.90USD) for all the materials you see in the first image. I made 22 fabulous stitch markers and I still have enough materials to make at least another 15. I love the way they turn out. Plus it's cheaper than eBay or Etsy, LOVE it. :)

Stitch markers for crochet

Stitch markers for knitting

Have a wonderful day and see you next time. :)

- Janet Carrillo

Granny Square Raccoon Mario blanket

 By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 62" x 59" (5.17ft. x 4.92ft.)

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 4.5mm for the border

*Crochet hook size: 5.0mm (H) for the granny squares

*Worsted Weight Yarn: Red (315yds), Back (892yds), Tan (429yds) & Royal Blue (1370yds)
*Tapestry Needle

     This was my 8th crochet project. It was inspired by this Mario bedspread I saw on Ravelry but it was the old Mario (the one from the very first game). Even though Russ McAllister did an amazing job, I wanted a different Mario image to work on. After searching for days I found an image of the raccoon Mario that I like better and started working on it.
     I made this back in February '11 and finish in May '11. It took me quite a while to finish since I was getting annoyed by making granny squares. I made some Mario Bros. amigurumis in between. Even though, it got annoying of making approximately 670some squares the end result was amazing. Seeing my son's face light up with joy when I show him the blanket was priceless. :)
     The squares I made are 2"x2". Since it was my first time doing granny squares I had to search for how to make granny squares on YouTube. Here's the video I use to learn; link. But if I would have known about Tunisian crochet then, I would of most definitely made it like that. Just three weeks ago, I learn about Tunisian crochet. *giggles*

Here's the 8-bit image I use to make the blanket. :)

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Whomp Plushie

By JC Designs

SIZE
Approx size: Height 7.5"

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 3mm
*DK weight yarn: Gray (213yds), Black (2yds)
*Felt in small amounts: black, white & red
*Yarn needle
*Sewing needle
*Gray thread
*Fiberfill
*Pinto Beans or any other type of bean

PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

BODY (gray)
  Row 1: ch 30, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and hdc in each ch across , ch1, turn (29)
  Row 2-31: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 32: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 33-35: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 36: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 37-67: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 68: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 69-71: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 72: Place the two ends together. We’re going to slip stitch the two ends together but on the back piece where going to slip stitch into the front loops only. Slit stitch all the way across.
F/O, secure and weave in ends.

Image 1: Closing the two ends of the body together.

SIDES for the body to close it (gray) make 2
  Row 1: ch 6, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and hdc in each ch across , ch1, turn (5)
  Row 2-31: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (5)
F/O, secure and weave in ends.

Image 2: You want to sew the sides to the body with matching thread or use the whip stitch. (I use matching thread).

HAND/ARM (gray) make 2
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5-11: sc in each sc across (24)
  Rnd 12: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (18)
  Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (12)
  Rnd 14: dec over next 2sc around (6)
At this point you will want to stuff the hand moderately firm.
  Rnd 15-20: sc in each sc across (6)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. No need to close the opening.

FEET (gray) make 2
[Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.]

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4)
  Rnd 2: ch 1, 3sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12)
  Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, *3sc next sc, sc in next 2sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21)
  Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc, *3sc  next sc, sc in next 4sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28)
  Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join. sc in next 2 sc. *3sc next sc, sc in next 6sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (36)
  Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3sc, *3sc next sc, sc in next 8sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)
  Rnd 7: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(44)
  Rnd 8: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc 5times, sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc 5times, sc in next 5sc, sl st to the first sc of round. (33)
  Rnd 9: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(33)
  Rnd 10: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in next 4sc, dec over the next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, dec over next 3sc, sc in next 3, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 3sc, dec over the next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, dec over next 3sc, sc in next 4, sl st to the first sc of round (23)
  Rnd 11-12: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(33)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. No need to close the opening. Fill completely with just beans.


ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  See picture for placement for arm/hand and feet. Eyes, mouth, tongue, teeth are constructed from felt. Sew them in place or glue them.

  I didn’t put no instructions on how to make the crease for the mouth or eyes cause your cutouts might be slightly bigger or smaller than mine. But basically all you need to do is chain several chains, measure your chains to see if it’s a perfect size if not add more or take some off some, then sc in each ch across just once and pin them in place and sew them with matching thread.

  With black yarn, chain stitch stripes on Whomp’s back. You can either make it look like mine or you can change it up a little. Then you want place the band aids (constructed from yellow felt) in a X shape. You can either sew them or glue them in place.

Hope you enjoy your new plushie. ☺

- Janet Carrillo

Whomp and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (August 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.