approx. 10.25"height x 5.5"length (26cm x 14cm)
...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.
MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Charcoal Gray (85yds), Medium Gray (42yds), Coffee (7yds), White (65yds) & Green (2yds)
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Felt: Black & White
*Fiberfill
*Felt: Black & White
*Fiberfill
*Wooden Dowel
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue
PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
There is no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue
PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
There is no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
When a round or row mentions “around/across” you will be working that whole sequence from that round/row around the entire piece. (EX: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around = sc, inc, sc, inc,…)
SPECIAL STITCHES
Bobble Stitch (4dc bobble st) - Y/O hook, insert hook into stitch & pull up a loop. Y/O hook & pull through 2 loops on hook; 2 loops remaining. Y/O hook, insert hook in same stitch & pull up a loop. Y/O hook & pull through 2 loops on hook; 3 loops remaining. Y/O hook, insert hook in same stitch & pull up a loop. Y/O hook & pull through 2 loops on hook; 4 loops remaining. Y/O hook, insert hook in same stitch & pull up a loop. Y/O hook & pull through 2 loops on hook; 5 loops remaining. Y/O hook & pull through all 5 loops on the hook.
Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.
Other side of the foundation chains - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.
Picot Stitch - ch3, insert hook into the 3rd chain from hook, y/o & draw up the yarn through all the loops.
Single crochet 3 stitches together (sc3tog) - is a decrease over 3sts. Insert yarn thru 1st st, y/o pull thru, insert thru 2nd st, y/o pull thru, insert thru 3rd st, y/o pull thru, & y/o pull thru all 4 loops on hook.
FEET starting with coffee; make 2
Rnd 1: 7sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around, in last st change to charcoal gray (14)
Rnd 3: 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st (20)
Rnd 4: sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 8 sts, sc in next 6 sts (20)
Rnd 5: back loops only for this round sc in each st around (20)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around (20)
Rnd 7: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog x2, sc in next 8 sts (18)
Rnd 8: sc in next 5 sts, hdc2tog x4, sc in next 5 sts, in last st change to medium gray (14)
LEFT LEG
Rnd 9: sl st in each st around (14)
Rnd 10: working in the back loops only of the sl st's from rnd 9, sc in each st around (14)
Rnd 11: sc in each st around (14)
Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts (15)
Rnd 13: sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts (17)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Leave the stitch marker in place as a guide for when we begin working with the body.
RIGHT LEG
Rnd 9: sl st in each st around (14)
Rnd 10: working in the back loops only of the sl st's from rnd 9, sc in each st around (14)
Rnd 11: sc in each st around (14)
Rnd 12: sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts (15)
Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 11 sts (17)
DO NOT F/O. We will be attaching the legs and starting on the body.
BODY
Rnd 14: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, ch4 and join to the other leg with a sc on the 5th st, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3sts, (remove the stitch marker from the left leg), sc in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 chs (back loops of the chains), sc in next 3 sts of the right leg (44)
Rnd 15: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts, (front loops of the chains only) 2sc in next ch, sc in next 2 chs, 2sc in next ch, (both loops moving forward) sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 15 sts (50)
Rnd 16-22: sc in each st around, in the last st of round 22 change to charcoal gray (50)
Rnd 23: sl st in each st around (50)
Rnd 24: working in the back loops only of the sl st's from rnd 23, sc in each st around (50)
Stuffed the feet/legs moderately firm.
Rnd 25: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 24 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sts (48)
Rnd 26: sc in each st around (48)
Rnd 27: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 23 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sts (46)
Rnd 28: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 23 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts (44)
Rnd 29: sc in each st around (44)
Rnd 30: sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog, around (40)
Rnd 31: sc in each st around (40)
Start stuffing the body moderately firm.
Rnd 32: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, around (36)
Rnd 33: sc in each st around (36)
Rnd 34: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, around (32)
Rnd 35: sc in each st around (32)
Rnd 36: sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, around (28)
Rnd 37: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, around (24)
Rnd 38: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, around (20)
Rnd 39: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, around (16)
Rnd 40: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, around, in last st change to white (12)
Continue stuffing the body and place a wooden dowel to ensure the head doesn't wobble.
HEAD
Rnd 41: 2sc in each st, around (24)
Rnd 42: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (32)
Rnd 43: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, around (40)
Rnd 44: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, around (48)
Rnd 45: sc in next 17 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 24 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts (52)
Rnd 46: sc in each st around (52)
Rnd 47: sc in next 18 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 26 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts (56)
Rnd 48-57: sc in each st around (56)
Rnd 58: sc in next 18 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 26 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 6 sts (52)
Rnd 59: sc in each st around (52)
Rnd 60: sc in next 17 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 24 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 5 sts (48)
Start stuffing the head moderately firm.
Rnd 61: sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, around (42)
Rnd 62: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, around (36)
Rnd 63: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, around (30)
Rnd 64: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, around (24)
Rnd 65: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, around (18)
Rnd 66: sc in next 1 sts, sc2tog, around (12)
Rnd 67: sc2tog, around (6)
F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.
TAIL with white
Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (10)
Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (15)
Rnd 4-5: sc in each st around (15)
Begin stuffing the tail moderately firm.
Rnd 6: sc in next st, sc2tog, around (10)
Rnd 7: sc2tog, around (5)
F/O, add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the tail. Leave a tail for sewing.
EARS with charcoal gray; make 2
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: 3sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, around (16)
Rnd 4: sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts (20)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts (24)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 7: sc in next 2 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 9 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 7 sts (20)
Rnd 8: sc in next 2 sts (short row)
F/O, leave a tail for sewing.
LEFT EYE with charcoal gray
Rnd 1: ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, 4sc in next ch, other side of the foundation chains sc in next 3 chs, ch1, turn (10)
Rnd 2: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, ch1, turn (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sl st in next 7 sts, ch1, sl st across the top (flat side, I fit 5 slip stitches)
F/O, leave a tail for sewing.
RIGHT EYE with charcoal gray
Rnd 1: ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, 4sc in next ch, other side of the foundation chains sc in next 3 chs, ch1, turn (10)
Rnd 2: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, ch1, turn (12)
Rnd 3: sl st in next 7 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts,
ch1, sl st across the top (flat side, I fit 5 slip stitches)
F/O, leave a tail for sewing.
NOSE with charcoal gray
Rnd 1: sc, sl st, sc, sl st, sc, sl st, sl st in magic ring and join with an invisible join to the 1st st (7)
Pull as tightly as possible so no hole is showing through. F/O, secure and weave in the ends.
TRIANGLES with medium gray
Row 1: ch9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, ch1, turn (3)
Row 2-3: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (3)
Row 4: sc2tog, sc in next st, ch1, turn (2)
Row 5: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (2)
Row 6: sc2tog, ch1, turn (1)
Row 7: sc in next st (1)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.
Row 1: attach yarn on the 5th ch, sc in same ch you attach, sc in next ch, ch1, turn (2)
Row 2: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (2)
Row 3: sc2tog, ch1, turn (1)
Row 4: sc in next st (1)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.
Row 1: attach yarn on the 7th ch, sc in same ch you attach, sc next 2 sts, ch1, turn (3)
Row 2-3: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (3)
Row 4: sc in next st, sc2tog, ch1, turn (2)
Row 5: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (2)
Row 6: sc2tog, ch1, turn (1)
Row 7: sc in next st (1)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.
ARMS with charcoal gray; make 2
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 5: bobble st, sc in next 11 sts (12)
Rnd 6: sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts (11)
Rnd 7-20: sc in each st around (11)
Rnd 21: sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts (10)
Stuff the arm moderately firm.
Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches sc in next 5 sts (5)
F/O, leave a tail for sewing.
SPOT on the hands with coffee; make 2
Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring, join with an invisible join to the 1st st (4)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.
TUFT on top of the head with white; make 3
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (9)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around (9)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* repeat from * to * 2 times, sc in last st (7)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around (7)
Start lightly stuffing the tuft.
Rnd 6: *sc in next st, sc2tog* repeat from * to * 2 times, sc in last st (5)
Rnd 7: sc in next st, *sc2tog* repeat from * to * 2 times (3)
F/O and leave a tail for closing. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.
TUFT on the cheeks with white; make 2
Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around (6)
Rnd 4-5: sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts (6)
Start lightly stuffing the tuft.
Rnd 6: sc in next st, sc2tog, around (4)
Rnd 7: sc2tog, around (2)
F/O and leave a tail for closing. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.
TUFT on the back of the body with medium gray; make 2
Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: 2sc in next st, sc in next st, around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around (6)
Rnd 4: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, around (8)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around (8)
Rnd 6: 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, around (10)
Rnd 7-8: sc in each st around (10)
Row 1: there's no need to stuff them, simply flatten them to match up the stitches sc in next 5 sts (5)
Row 2: sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog (3)
F/O, leave a tail for sewing.
Note: when you see a + sign, all those stitches are supposed to be done in that particular stitch.
LEAF with green
Rnd 1: ch4, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, hdc+picot st+hdc in last st, other side of the foundation chains hdc in next 2 chs, ch1 and sl st in same st as the previous st
F/O, leave a tail for sewing.
ASSEMBLE
I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to ensure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
TAIL...place it towards the back and center of the body, between rounds 20 and 22.
I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to ensure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
TAIL...place it towards the back and center of the body, between rounds 20 and 22.
TRIANGLES...place it towards the front center of the body, above round 22. The smaller triangle goes up to round 27, while the longer triangles go up to round 30.
FEET... 1. Using the charcoal gray yarn, insert the needle in round 3 (the back of the foot).
2. Pass the needle from the inside of the feet to the outside of round 6 (the front of the foot). Repeat these steps again, leaving 3 stitches apart to create the toes.
ARMS...placed them on round 40, which was the last round before starting on the head. The bobble stitch should be facing outward.
SPOTS on the hands...place them inside the arms between rounds 3 and 5. I suggest using thread so it doesn't look too bulky.
TUFT on the back of the body...place it at round 40. Only sewing the last flat row.
EARS...there's no need to stuff them, flatten them out instead. Align them to the arms and place them between rounds 53 and 61. You will want to bend them a bit, so the middle portion is a bit inward.
EYES...position on the face at an angle, like in the picture below.
I place the eyes between rounds 51 and 57. On the flat side, one corner should be at round 57 and the other at 55. At round 55, the distance between the eyes should be 1.5 inches (3.81cm).
NOSE...place it between rounds 50 and 51.
TUFT on top of the hair...arrange the 3 pieces of hair on top of the head. At round 63, I placed the first tuft and then positioned the rest behind it.
TUFT on the cheeks... place them between rounds 48 and 49. Have them pointing upwards to the ears.
EYES...using black embroidery floss, thread, or yarn, embroider the black line above the eyes.
Using white and black felt cut-out ovals for the eyes. The white one is slightly bigger than the black one. Like in the picture below. Place them above the crochet eyes.
SMILE...using black embroidery floss, thread, or yarn, embroider a smile however you like the possibilities are endless. You can also make the smile by surface slip stitching. I gave him half a smile between rounds 47 and 48; 7 stitches wide.
LEAF...place it underneath the smile like in the picture below.
GLOSSARY:
ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet || htr: half triple crochet
rnd: round || sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es
y/o: yarn over
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- Janet
- Janet
Pancham and Pokemon are copyrighted by The Pokemon Company.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (November 2023). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.