We Bare Bears Beanie (knit)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

    Simple but yet very stylish; for boys and girls of all ages. You can comfortably wear it during any season depending on the yarn you used and the weather, of course. This is an easy-to-knit beanie if you know the basics knit, purl and k2tog.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
Child (6yrs - 10yrs) [19" to 20" head circumference]
Teen/Small Adult [20" to 21" head circumference]

Adult (men) [21" to 23" head circumference]

MATERIALS
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Main Color and small amounts of black, white, brown, red, darker tone of red, charcoal gray
*DPN's or Circular Needles: 4.5mm & 5.0mm
*Stitch Marker to mark your rounds
*Tapestry Needle

GAUGE
Using 5.0mm needles...  4.5 stitches x  6 rows = 1"
Don't forget to check your gauge.

PATTERN NOTES
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterward; the choice is yours. Here's a great video on how to duplicate stitch; HERE.

STARTING the BEANIE

CO 80 (90, 90) sts on 4.5mm needles with main color yarn.

Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.

Do ribbing (k1, p1) for 1 inch (approx. 6 rounds).

Change to larger needles and proceed knitting for 4 (4.5, 5) inches. This will give you approx. 27 (32, 37) rounds. Please follow the graph to know in which rows to do the color changes.

SHAPING the CROWN

  Rnd 1: k8, k2tog around

  Rnd 2 and all even rounds: knit around

  Rnd 3: k7, k2tog around

  Rnd 5: k6, k2tog around

  Rnd 7: k5, k2tog around

  Rnd 9: k4, k2tog around

  Rnd 11: k3, k2tog around

  Rnd 13: k2, k2tog around

  Rnd 15: k1, k2tog around

  Rnd 17: k2tog around

Leave a tail (up to 8"). You will use a tapestry needle to thread the tail through the last remaining stitches on your needle. After removing the needles from the stitches, pull tightly to close the top hole. Lastly, hide the tail inside and weave it in.

Note: right-click on the image and open the image in a new tab to enlarge and print out.

The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Child size is up to the red line.
Teen/Small Adult size is up to the green line.
Adult (men) size is the full graph.

GLOSSARY:

CO: cast on || k: knit || p: purl || k2tog: knit 2 stitches together

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook page.

Or follow us on Instagram. :)

Have a nice knit time!
- Janet

We Bare Bears is copyrighted by The Cartoon Network, Inc.

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (June2024). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Panda Beanie (knit)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

    Simple but yet very stylish; for boys and girls of all ages. You can comfortably wear it during any season depending on the yarn you used and the weather, of course. This is an easy-to-knit beanie if you know the basics knit, purl and k2tog.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
Child (6yrs - 10yrs) [19" to 20" head circumference]
Teen/Small Adult [20" to 21" head circumference]

Adult (men) [21" to 23" head circumference]

MATERIALS
*Worsted Weight Yarn: White & Black
*DPN's or Circular Needles: 4.5mm & 5.0mm
*Stitch Marker to mark your rounds
*Tapestry Needle

GAUGE
Using 5.0mm needles...  4.5 stitches x  6 rows = 1"
Don't forget to check your gauge.

PATTERN NOTES
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterward; the choice is yours. Here's a great video on how to duplicate stitch; HERE.

STARTING the BEANIE

CO 80 (90, 90) sts on 4.5mm needles with main color yarn.

Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.

Do ribbing (k1, p1) for 1 inch (approx. 6 rounds).

Change to larger needles and proceed knitting for 4 (4.5, 5) inches. This will give you approx. 27 (32, 37) rounds. Please follow the graph to know in which rows to do the color changes.

SHAPING the CROWN

  Rnd 1: k8, k2tog around

  Rnd 2 and all even rounds: knit around

  Rnd 3: k7, k2tog around

  Rnd 5: k6, k2tog around

  Rnd 7: k5, k2tog around

  Rnd 9: k4, k2tog around

  Rnd 11: k3, k2tog around

  Rnd 13: k2, k2tog around

  Rnd 15: k1, k2tog around

  Rnd 17: k2tog around

Leave a tail (up to 8"). You will use a tapestry needle to thread the tail through the last remaining stitches on your needle. After removing the needles from the stitches, pull tightly to close the top hole. Lastly, hide the tail inside and weave it in.

NOTE: The ears are worked all in one piece and then folded in half.

EARS with black, make 2

CO 4 stitch with the 5.0mm needles 

  Row 1: kfb, k2, kfb (6sts)

  Row 2: kfb, p4, kfb (8sts)

  Row 3: kfb, k6, kfb (10sts)

  Row 4: kfb, p8, kfb (12sts)

  Row 5: kfb, k10, kfb (14sts)

  Row 6: purl across (14sts)

  Row 7: knit across (14sts)

  Row 8: purl across (14sts)

  Row 9: knit across (14sts)

  Row 10: p2tog, p10, p2tog (12sts)

  Row 11: knit across (12sts)

  Row 12: purl across (12sts)

  Row 13: purl across (12sts)

  Row 14: purl across (12sts)

  Row 15: knit across (12sts)

  Row 16: kfb, p10, kfb (14sts)

  Row 17: knit across (14sts)

  Row 18: purl across (14sts)

  Row 19: knit across (14sts)

  Row 20: purl across (14sts)

  Row 21: k2tog, k10, k2tog (12sts)

  Row 22: p2tog, p8, p2tog (10sts)

  Row 23: k2tog, k6, k2tog (8sts)

  Row 24: p2tog, p4, p2tog (6sts)

  Row 25: k2tog, k2, k2tog (4sts)

Cast off all stitches. Weave in the ends.

Fold the ear in half along row 13. Using the 3.75mm (F) crochet hook, single crochet along the entire ear to close it off. F/O, weave in all ends.

Another method you can use if you're not comfortable crocheting, use a tapestry needle and whip stitch along the entire ear to close it off. 

ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).

     EARS...lay out the beanie flat and find the position you like best.

Note: right-click on the image and open the image in a new tab to enlarge and print out.

The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Child size is up to the red line.
Teen/Small Adult size is up to the green line.
Adult (men) size is the full graph.

GLOSSARY:

co: cast on || k: knit || k2tog: knit 2 stitches together || kfb: knit front and back || p: purl

p2tog: purl 2 stitches together || rnd/s: round/s || st/s: stitch/es

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook page.

Or follow us on Instagram. :)

Have a nice knit time!
- Janet

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (May 2024). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Panda Earflap Beanie (toddler-small adult)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

Channeling my inner panda with this adorable crochet beanie! Who says warmth can't be cute?

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS

Toddler (12 months - 3yrs) [18" to 19.5" head circumference]
Child/Small Adult [20" to 21.5" head circumference]

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.75mm (F) & 5.0mm (H)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: White & Black
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Tapestry needle
*Matching thread

*2 white buttons (diameter of 11mm)

GAUGE

3 hdc stitches x 2.5 rows = 1"

At the end of round 8, laying flat = 6.25" in diameter

Don’t forget to check your gauge.

PATTERN NOTES

 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.

 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.

 The ch 2 at the beginning of each round counts as 1 hdc.

 You slip stitch on the top of the chain 2.

 When a round or row mentions “around/across” you will be working that whole sequence from that round/row around the entire piece. (EX: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around = sc, inc, sc, inc,…)

SPECIAL STITCHES

Half Triple Crochet (htr) - Y/O hook twice, insert hook into stitch & pull up a loop (4 loops remaining), Y/O hook & pull thru 2 loops (3 loops remaining), Y/O hook & pull thru the 3 remaining loops.

Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Single crochet 3 stitches together (sc3tog) – is a decrease over 3sts. Insert yarn thru 1st st, y/o pull thru, insert thru 2nd st, y/o pull thru, insert thru 3rd st, y/o pull thru, & y/o pull thru all 4 loops on hook.

** Toddler **

BEANIE with white; 5.0mm (H)
  Rnd 1: 8hdc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (8)
  Rnd 2: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, *2hdc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (16)
  Rnd 3: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (24)
  Rnd 4: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (32)
  Rnd 5: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (40)
  Rnd 6: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (48)
  Rnd 7: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (56)
  Rnd 8: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 27 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 27 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (58)
  Rnd 9-16: ch2, hdc in each st around, sl st on top of ch 2 (58)
Do not F/O, continue on to making the first earflap.

1st EARFLAP with black
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 10 sts, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 2-3: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 4: sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 5: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 6: sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 7: sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 8: sc2tog, sc2tog (2)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

2nd EARFLAP black
Count to the left 18sts (not including the 10 sts from the first earflap). Attach on the 19th stitch.

Repeat rows 1-8 from the first earflap.

F/O, secure and weave in the ends

EDGING with black
Attach yarn in any st and ch1, sc in each st around; working evenly around each earflap. Remember to mark your round with a stitch marker. Do another round of sc around the entire beanie. Join with an invisible join to the 1st st.
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

** Child / Small Adult **

BEANIE with white; 5.0mm (H)
  Rnd 1: 8hdc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (8)
  Rnd 2: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, *2hdc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (16)
  Rnd 3: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (24)
  Rnd 4: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (32)
  Rnd 5: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (40)
  Rnd 6: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (48)
  Rnd 7: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (56)
  Rnd 8: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 6 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (64)
  Rnd 9: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 15 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st on top of ch 2 (68)
  Rnd 10-19: ch2, hdc in each st around, sl st on top of ch 2 (68)
Don’t F/O, continue to make the first earflap.

1st EARFLAP with black
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 12 sts, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 2-3: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 4: sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 5: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 6: sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 7: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn (8)
  Row 8: sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 9: sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 10: sc2tog, sc2tog (2)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

2nd EARFLAP with black
Count to the left 23 sts (not including the 12 from the first earflap). Attach the yarn on 24th stitch.

Repeat rows 1-10 from the first earflap.

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

EDGING with black
Attach yarn in any stitch and ch1, sc in each st around; working evenly around each earflap. Remember to mark your round with a stitch marker. Do another round of sc around the entire beanie. Join with an invisible join to the 1st st.

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

NOTE: the chains in the beginning DON'T count as a stitch. 

EYE with black, make 2, 3.75mm (F)

  Rnd 1: 8hdc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (8)

  Rnd 2: ch2, 2hdc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (16)

  Rnd 3: ch1, sc in next st, hdc in next st, 2htr in the next 3sts, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, sl st into 1st st (19)

  Rnd 4: ch1, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next 3 sts, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, join with an invisible join to the 1st st (24)

F/O, leave a tail for sewing.

EARS with black, make 2, 3.75mm (F)

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: 3sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, around (16)

  Rnd 4: sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts (20)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts (24)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts (28)

  Rnd 7-9: sc in each st around (28)

  Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 11 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 8 sts (24)

  Rnd 11: sc in each st around, join with an invisible join to the 1st st (24)

F/O, leave a tail for sewing.

NOSE with black

  Rnd 1: sc, hdc, sc, hdc, sc, hdc, sc in magic ring and join with an invisible join to the 1st st (7)

Pull as tightly as possible so no hole is showing through. F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

BRAIDS
Cut 18 pieces of yarn (9 for each earflap) about 36 inches long. Fold each bunch in half and push the folded end through an opening in the bottom of each earflap. Pull the unfolded ends through the loop and pull tight. Braid the strands and tie a knot to secure the braid. Complete the second braid the same way.

ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
     EYES...the section with the htr stitches points outward.

Toddler: place them slightly slanted between rounds 8 and 13; approx 2" apart in round 12.

Child/small adult: place them slightly slanted between rounds 10 and 15; approx 2" apart in round 10.

     NOSE...place it in the center of the eyes between rounds 12 and 13 for size toddler beanie.

Place it between rounds 14 and 15 for size child/adult beanie.

     EYES...place the white buttons in the position you like best. You can also use felt or crochet them.

     EARS...there’s no need to stuff them, simply flatten them out.

Place them between rounds 4 and 8 for size toddler beanie.

Place them between rounds 5 and 9 for size child/adult beanie.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet || htr: half triple crochet

rnd: round || sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together

sc3tog: single crochet 3 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es || y/o: yarn over 

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook page.

Or follow us on Instagram. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (May 2024). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Pancham Plushie (Pokemon)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 10.25"height x 5.5"length (26cm x 14cm)

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Charcoal Gray (85yds), Medium Gray (42yds), Coffee (7yds), White (65yds) & Green (2yds)

*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Felt: Black & White
*Fiberfill

*Wooden Dowel
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There is no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.

 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.

 When a round or row mentions “around/across” you will be working that whole sequence from that round/row around the entire piece. (EX: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around = sc, inc, sc, inc,…)

SPECIAL STITCHES

Bobble Stitch (4dc bobble st) - Y/O hook, insert hook into stitch & pull up a loop. Y/O hook & pull through 2 loops on hook; 2 loops remaining. Y/O hook, insert hook in same stitch & pull up a loop. Y/O hook & pull through 2 loops on hook; 3 loops remaining. Y/O hook, insert hook in same stitch & pull up a loop. Y/O hook & pull through 2 loops on hook; 4 loops remaining. Y/O hook, insert hook in same stitch & pull up a loop. Y/O hook & pull through 2 loops on hook; 5 loops remaining. Y/O hook & pull through all 5 loops on the hook. 

Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Other side of the foundation chains - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Picot Stitch - ch3, insert hook into the 3rd chain from hook, y/o & draw up the yarn through all the loops.

Single crochet 3 stitches together (sc3tog) - is a decrease over 3sts. Insert yarn thru 1st st, y/o pull thru, insert thru 2nd st, y/o pull thru, insert thru 3rd st, y/o pull thru, & y/o pull thru all 4 loops on hook.

Please note that Pancham is crochet from his legs up to his head in rounds.
FEET starting with coffee; make 2
  Rnd 1: 7sc in magic ring (7)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around, in last st change to charcoal gray (14)
  Rnd 3: 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st (20)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 8 sts, sc in next 6 sts (20)

  Rnd 5: back loops only for this round sc in each st around (20)

  Rnd 6: sc in each st around (20)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog x2, sc in next 8 sts (18)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 5 sts, hdc2tog x4, sc in next 5 sts, in last st change to medium gray (14) 

LEFT LEG

  Rnd 9: sl st in each st around (14)

  Rnd 10: working in the back loops only of the sl st's from rnd 9, sc in each st around (14)

  Rnd 11: sc in each st around (14)

  Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts (15)

  Rnd 13: sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts (17)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Leave the stitch marker in place as a guide for when we begin working with the body.

RIGHT LEG

  Rnd 9: sl st in each st around (14)

  Rnd 10: working in the back loops only of the sl st's from rnd 9, sc in each st around (14)

  Rnd 11: sc in each st around (14)

  Rnd 12: sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts (15)

  Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 11 sts (17)

DO NOT F/O. We will be attaching the legs and starting on the body.

BODY

  Rnd 14: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, ch4 and join to the other leg with a sc on the 5th st, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3sts, (remove the stitch marker from the left leg), sc in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 chs (back loops of the chains), sc in next 3 sts of the right leg (44)

  Rnd 15: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts, (front loops of the chains only) 2sc in next ch, sc in next 2 chs, 2sc in next ch, (both loops moving forward) sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 15 sts (50)

  Rnd 16-22: sc in each st around, in the last st of round 22 change to charcoal gray (50)

  Rnd 23: sl st in each st around (50)

  Rnd 24: working in the back loops only of the sl st's from rnd 23, sc in each st around (50)

Stuffed the feet/legs moderately firm.

  Rnd 25: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 24 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sts (48)

  Rnd 26: sc in each st around (48)

  Rnd 27: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 23 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sts (46)

  Rnd 28: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 23 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts (44)

  Rnd 29: sc in each st around (44)

  Rnd 30: sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog, around (40)

  Rnd 31: sc in each st around (40)

Start stuffing the body moderately firm.

  Rnd 32: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, around (36)

  Rnd 33: sc in each st around (36)

  Rnd 34: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, around (32)

  Rnd 35: sc in each st around (32)

  Rnd 36: sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, around (28)

  Rnd 37: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, around (24)

  Rnd 38: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, around (20)

  Rnd 39: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, around (16)

  Rnd 40: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, around, in last st change to white (12)

Continue stuffing the body and place a wooden dowel to ensure the head doesn't wobble.

HEAD

  Rnd 41: 2sc in each st, around (24)

  Rnd 42: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (32)

  Rnd 43: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, around (40)

  Rnd 44: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, around (48)

  Rnd 45: sc in next 17 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 24 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts (52)

  Rnd 46: sc in each st around (52)

  Rnd 47: sc in next 18 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 26 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts (56)

  Rnd 48-57: sc in each st around (56)

  Rnd 58: sc in next 18 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 26 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 6 sts (52)

  Rnd 59: sc in each st around (52)

  Rnd 60: sc in next 17 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 24 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 5 sts (48)

Start stuffing the head moderately firm. 

  Rnd 61: sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, around (42)

  Rnd 62: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, around (36)

  Rnd 63: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, around (30)

  Rnd 64: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, around (24)

  Rnd 65: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, around (18)

  Rnd 66: sc in next 1 sts, sc2tog, around (12)

  Rnd 67: sc2tog, around (6)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

TAIL with white

  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (10)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (15)

  Rnd 4-5: sc in each st around (15)

Begin stuffing the tail moderately firm.

  Rnd 6: sc in next st, sc2tog, around (10)

  Rnd 7: sc2tog, around (5)

F/O, add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the tail. Leave a tail for sewing.

EARS with charcoal gray; make 2

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: 3sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, around (16)

  Rnd 4: sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts (20)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts (24)

  Rnd 6: sc in each st around (24)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 2 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 9 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 7 sts (20)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 2 sts (short row)

F/O, leave a tail for sewing.

LEFT EYE with charcoal gray

  Rnd 1: ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, 4sc in next ch, other side of the foundation chains sc in next 3 chs, ch1, turn (10)

  Rnd 2: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, ch1, turn (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sl st in next 7 sts, ch1, sl st across the top (flat side, I fit 5 slip stitches)

F/O, leave a tail for sewing.

RIGHT EYE with charcoal gray

  Rnd 1: ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, 4sc in next ch, other side of the foundation chains sc in next 3 chs, ch1, turn (10)

  Rnd 2: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, ch1, turn (12)

  Rnd 3: sl st in next 7 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 

ch1, sl st across the top (flat side, I fit 5 slip stitches)

F/O, leave a tail for sewing.

NOSE with charcoal gray

  Rnd 1: sc, sl st, sc, sl st, sc, sl st, sl st in magic ring and join with an invisible join to the 1st st (7)

Pull as tightly as possible so no hole is showing through. F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TRIANGLES with medium gray

  Row 1: ch9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, ch1, turn (3)

  Row 2-3: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (3)

  Row 4: sc2tog, sc in next st, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 5: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 6: sc2tog, ch1, turn (1)

  Row 7: sc in next st (1)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

    Row 1: attach yarn on the 5th ch, sc in same ch you attach, sc in next ch, ch1, turn (2)

    Row 2: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (2)

    Row 3: sc2tog, ch1, turn (1)

    Row 4: sc in next st (1)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

  Row 1: attach yarn on the 7th ch, sc in same ch you attach, sc next 2 sts, ch1, turn (3)

  Row 2-3: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (3)

  Row 4: sc in next st, sc2tog, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 5: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 6: sc2tog, ch1, turn (1)

  Row 7: sc in next st (1)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

ARMS with charcoal gray; make 2

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 5: bobble st, sc in next 11 sts (12)

  Rnd 6: sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts (11)

  Rnd 7-20: sc in each st around (11) 

  Rnd 21: sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts (10)

Stuff the arm moderately firm.

  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches sc in next 5 sts (5)

F/O, leave a tail for sewing.

SPOT on the hands with coffee; make 2

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring, join with an invisible join to the 1st st (4)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TUFT on top of the head with white; make 3

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (9)

  Rnd 3: sc in each st around (9)

  Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* repeat from * to * 2 times, sc in last st (7)

  Rnd 5: sc in each st around (7)

Start lightly stuffing the tuft.

  Rnd 6: *sc in next st, sc2tog* repeat from * to * 2 times, sc in last st (5)

  Rnd 7: sc in next st, *sc2tog* repeat from * to * 2 times (3)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

TUFT on the cheeks with white; make 2

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (6)

  Rnd 3: sc in each st around (6)

  Rnd 4-5: sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts (6)

Start lightly stuffing the tuft.

  Rnd 6: sc in next st, sc2tog, around (4)

  Rnd 7: sc2tog, around (2)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

TUFT on the back of the body with medium gray; make 2

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in next st, sc in next st, around (6)

  Rnd 3: sc in each st around (6)

  Rnd 4: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, around (8)

  Rnd 5: sc in each st around (8)

  Rnd 6: 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, around (10)

  Rnd 7-8: sc in each st around (10)

  Row 1: there's no need to stuff them, simply flatten them to match up the stitches sc in next 5 sts (5)

  Row 2: sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog (3)

F/O, leave a tail for sewing.

Note: when you see a + sign, all those stitches are supposed to be done in that particular stitch.

LEAF with green

  Rnd 1: ch4, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, hdc+picot st+hdc in last st, other side of the foundation chains hdc in next 2 chs, ch1 and sl st in same st as the previous st

F/O, leave a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to ensure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
     TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
     TAIL...place it towards the back and center of the body, between rounds 20 and 22.

     TRIANGLES...place it towards the front center of the body, above round 22. The smaller triangle goes up to round 27, while the longer triangles go up to round 30.

     FEET... 1. Using the charcoal gray yarn, insert the needle in round 3 (the back of the foot).

                   2. Pass the needle from the inside of the feet to the outside of round 6 (the front of the foot).

                   Repeat these steps again, leaving 3 stitches apart to create the toes.

     ARMS...placed them on round 40, which was the last round before starting on the head. The bobble stitch should be facing outward.

     SPOTS on the hands...place them inside the arms between rounds 3 and 5. I suggest using thread so it doesn't look too bulky.

     TUFT on the back of the body...place it at round 40. Only sewing the last flat row.

     EARS...there's no need to stuff them, flatten them out instead. Align them to the arms and place them between rounds 53 and 61. You will want to bend them a bit, so the middle portion is a bit inward.

     EYES...position on the face at an angle, like in the picture below.

I place the eyes between rounds 51 and 57. On the flat side, one corner should be at round 57 and the other at 55. At round 55, the distance between the eyes should be 1.5 inches (3.81cm).

     NOSE...place it between rounds 50 and 51.

     TUFT on top of the hair...arrange the 3 pieces of hair on top of the head. At round 63, I placed the first tuft and then positioned the rest behind it.

     TUFT on the cheeks... place them between rounds 48 and 49. Have them pointing upwards to the ears.

     EYES...using black embroidery floss, thread, or yarn, embroider the black line above the eyes.

     Using white and black felt cut-out ovals for the eyes. The white one is slightly bigger than the black one. Like in the picture below. Place them above the crochet eyes.

     SMILE...using black embroidery floss, thread, or yarn, embroider a smile however you like the possibilities are endless. You can also make the smile by surface slip stitching. I gave him half a smile between rounds 47 and 48; 7 stitches wide.

     LEAF...place it underneath the smile like in the picture below.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet || htr: half triple crochet

rnd: round || sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es

y/o: yarn over

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Pancham and Pokemon are copyrighted by The Pokemon Company.

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (November 2023). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.