Tunisian Crochet Mario Pillow

MATERIALS
•Tunisian Crochet hook size 4.5mm
•DK weight yarn
•Tapestry needle
•Fiberfill
•Measuring tape


* First Tunisian Crochet Project *
  Thanks to Another Kay Jones for inspiring this project. I had already made my son a Mario blanket and thought this will go great with it. Plus I let my son pick out the characters he wanted, so he's going to love it when it's done. :) I'm going to be making him another pillow but with different Mario characters so he can have two.
  I made the charts on Microsoft Excel except for Goomba, I copied that one from Another Kay Jones and the others from doing a Google search and making them into 8-bit graphs. If you want to use different characters, there are plenty to be found on the web by searching for 8-bit Mario characters or anything along those lines.
  When working from these graphs you gotta keep in mind that one square equals one stitch, the amount of stitches you need on your hook needs to be one more than the amount of squares you need.

Ex: On the small graphs theirs 32 so I need to chain 33 stitches.

  Since I don’t know how to add Microsoft Excel files on here, I have just put the images up. If you would like me to e-mail you the Excel files, feel free to contact me. (Links on how to contact me are on the upper left hand side).
  To save on sewing (which I’m not great at), I made the character squares two at a time, so I crocheted the Goomba and Boo as one piece, with the color change half way, then I did the Blooper and Bomb-Omb as one piece. Then whip stitch the two pieces together. I use whip stitch when sewing the whole pillow together.

A site and videos on how to Tunisian Crochet
-An Introduction to Tunisian Crochet; it has images to show you how to while your reading. Great site, this is the one I use to learn.
-If your more of a video person rather than reading then this video is great for you.
-To bind off your work watch this video.
-For color changes watch this video.

Tips
-On the basics tutorial video, it says for the last stitch of the forward pass, put the hook through the two end stitches. Cause if you don't and when its time to sew them together the edges are gonna look holey. Just in case this happens to you. Simply use the same color thread and sew it so it wont look so obvious.
-On the color changes, don’t pull the threads too tight. If you’re doing a square with a lot of color changes start a new yarn thread cause if you keep pulling them the square its gonna get smaller as you continue making it. (This happen to me with the first square)
-Measure! Measure! Measure! You don't want your square to look uneven.

8-bit Graphs
  Go ahead and use the graphs if you want these characters. :)

Boo 32x32

Bomb-Omb 32x32

Blooper 32x32

Super Mushroom 64x64

- Janet Carrillo

Blooper Plushie

By JC Designs

SIZE
Apprx. Height 10” and width from the widest point 4”

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4mm
*Worsted weight yarn: White (apprx. 55g)
*Felt in small amounts: Black & White
*Yarn needle
*Fiberfill

PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.


BODY (using white)
  Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (14)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (16)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18)
  Rnd 10: sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (20)
  Rnd 11: sc in each sc around (20)
  Rnd 12: sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc around (22)
  Rnd 13: sc in each sc around (22)
  Rnd 14: sc in next 10sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (24)
  Rnd 16: sc in next 11sc, 2sc in next sc around (26)
  Rnd 17: *sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 5times, sc in last sc (31)
  Rnd 18: *sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 5times, sc in last sc (36)
  Rnd 19: *sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 5times, sc in last sc (41)
  Rnd 20-34: sc in each sc around (41)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along. Do not finish off.

1^st TENTACLE (using white)
  Row 1: sc in next 7sc, ch3, sl st to join to the first sc of this row, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 2: sc in each of the 3chs of the previous row, sc in next 7sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 3-9: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, ch1, turn (10)
Begin stuffing the tentacle.
  Row 10: sc in next sc, *dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 3 more times, sc in next sc, sl st to join (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

2^nd TENTACLE (using white)
Begin in the next st after the 7th sc of the first tentacle.
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 6sc, ch3, sc in next 7sc across, in the base of the 1^st tentacle dec over next 2sc 3times, sl st to join, ch1 turn (19)
See image 1
  Row 2: dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 5sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (15)
  Row 3-10: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, ch1, turn (15)
  Row 11: *sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 3times, sc in last sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around sl st to join, ch1, turn (8)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.
  Row 13: dec over next 2sc around, sl st to join (4)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

Image 1

3^rd TENTACLE (using white)
Begin in the next st after the 6^th sc of the second tentacle.
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 6sc, ch3, sc in next 7sc across, in the base of the 2^nd tentacle dec over next 2sc 3times, sl st to join, ch1 turn (19)
See image 1
  Row 2: dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 6sc,  dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 5sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (15)
  Row 3-10: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, ch1, turn (15)
  Row 11: *sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 3times, sc in last sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around sl st to join, ch1, turn (8)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.
  Row 13: dec over next 2sc around, sl st to join (4)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

4^th TENTACLE(using white)
Begin in the next st after the 6^th sc of the third tentacle.
  Row 1: sc in next 7sc, in the base of the 3^rd tentacle dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 2-9: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 10: sc in next sc, *dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 3 more times, sc in next sc, sl st to join (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

FIN (using white)
Pick up st between the 14 and 15 round
See image 2
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 15sts , in the tip 3sc in next st, sc in next 15sts, ch2, turn (33)
see image 3
  Row 2: dc in next 5sc, hdc in next 6sc, sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, hdc in next 6sc, dc in next 5sc, ch1 (35)
  Row 3:hdc in next 5, sc in next 25, hdc in next 5 (35)
F/O. Weave in ends.

Image 2

Image 3

TENTACLES make 2 (using white)
These tentacles are the ones that go on the side of the body.
  Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 3sc (10)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 2sc (8)
  Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around (8)
Stuff firmly the tentacle.
  Rnd 12: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  The only thing to pin and sew are the tentacles that go on the side.
  Eyes are constructed from felt. See pictures for guidance on how to get your eyes to look like.

Hope you enjoy your new plushie. ☺
- Janet Carrillo

Blooper and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (July 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.