Bowser Pillow in Tunisian Crochet Tutorial

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. size: 14" length x 10" width but can vary based on yarn and hook size

MATERIALS
*Tunisian Crochet hook size: 3.0mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Blue, Black, White, Beige, Light Green, Dark Green, Yellow, Red, Gray, Charcoal, Aran, Gold
*Tapestry Needle
*Measuring Tape
*Fiberfill
*Pen to mark your squares as you go!
*Bowser 8-bit graph that you'll find below. If you want to use a different character, there are plenty to be found on the web by searching for 8-bit Mario characters or anything along those lines.

Click on image to enlarge.

A site and videos on how to Tunisian Crochet
-Tunisian Crochet Basics by Purl soho; it has various images to show you how to while your reading.
-If you're more of a visual person rather than reading then this video by thecrochetside might be great for you.
-To bind off your work watch this video by Bethintx1.
-For color changes watch this video by GegeCrochet.

Tips
-On the basics tutorial video, it says for the last stitch of the forward pass for you to put the hook through the last two end stitches. Cause if you don't and when it's time to sew up the sides is going to look holey.
-On the color changes, don’t pull the yarns too tight. Since this graph has a lot of color changes start a new yarn thread cause if you keep pulling them too tightly the pillow its gonna get smaller as you continue making it. (This happen to me with my first Tunisian project I ever made.)
-Measure! Measure! Measure! You don't want your pillow to look uneven.
-Remember to mark off each square/row as you go. Double check your work to make sure you haven't missed a square.

Now lets make the back side
-Instead of binding off your work when you reach the last row of the graph, continue making the back side to save on sewing time (which I dislike).
-Make another black row, make 68 rows blue with the first & last stitch in black and the last row all black.
-Remember on the last all black row to bind off.

Last Steps
-All that's left to do is to weave in all the ends (that's the part I hate the most but its gotta be done)......
-......and sew the sides. Leave one side un-sew and stuff it moderately firm. As you continue sewing the last side, stuff as needed.

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Bowser and Mario Bros. are copyright by Nintendo.
 This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (November 2016). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Luigi with Yoshi Beanie (knit)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
age 5 - adult

MATERIALS
*DPN's or Circular: 3.0mm & 3.5mm
*approx. 100yds of Main Color (worsted weight)
*Small amounts of the following (worsted weight): Green, White, Beige, Navy Blue, Black, Orange & Red
*Tapestry Needle

PATTERN NOTES
  Luigi can easily be turned into Mario by simply changing the green to red.
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterward; the choice is yours. Here's a great video on how to duplicate stitch; Click Here.

>> Link to PDF file <<

Note: The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Don't forget to like this blog facebook fan page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

 Luigi and Yoshi are copyright by Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (October 2016). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Mario Bros. Mushroom Beanie

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
Child (20" - 21.5" head circumference) nice stretchy fit
This same pattern fits a teen and adult with a small head (it fit me, nice snug fit)

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 4.0mm (G) & 5.0mm (H)
*Worsted weight yarn: Main Color (110yds), Beige (40yds) & White (45yds) or any color of choice
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Tapestry needle
*Felt: Black & White
*Hot Glue
*Matching thread

GAUGE - don't forget to read it...
  At the end of round 9, laying flat = 6.75 inches in diameter.

PATTERN NOTES - must read...
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
  Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
  You slip stitch on the first hdc, not on top of the ch 2.

BEANIE starting with blue, green, red or color of choice; 5.0mm (H)
  Rnd 1: 8hdc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (8)
  Rnd 2: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, *2hdc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (16)
  Rnd 3: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (24)
  Rnd 4: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (32)
  Rnd 5: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (40)
  Rnd 6: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (48)
  Rnd 7: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (56)
  Rnd 8: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 6 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (64)
  Rnd 9: ch2, hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 15 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (68)
  Rnd 10-17: ch2, hdc in each st around, in the last st of round 17 change to beige, sl st into 1st st (68)
  Rnd 18-24: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (68)
Don’t F/O if you would like to put earflaps in your beanie just continue on with making them. If you don’t want earflaps then skip the earflap, edging and braids portion and continue on with making the spots.

1st EARFLAP with beige; 5.0mm (H)
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 12 sts, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 2-3: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 4: sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 5: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 6: sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 7: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 8: sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 9: sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 10: sc2tog, sc2tog (2)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

2nd EARFLAP with beige; 5.0mm (H)
Count to the right 23 sts. Attach yarn on the 24th st, ch1, sc in next 12 sts, ch1, turn. Continue with rows 2-10 just like in the 1st earflap.
Don’t F/O, continue on to crocheting the edging.

EDGING with beige; 5.0mm (H)
sc in each st around; working evenly around each earflap. Remember to mark your round with a stitch marker. Join with a sl st in the 1st st to give it a nice even finish.
F/O and weave in all ends.

BRAIDS
Cut 18 pieces of yarn (9 for each earflap) about 36 inches long. Fold each bunch in half and push the folded end through an opening in the bottom of each earflap. Pull the unfolded ends through the loop and pull tight. Braid the strands and tie a knot to secure the braid. Complete the second braid the same way. I use 3 strands of each in main color, white and beige; you can use just one color or any combination you like.

SPOTS with white; 4.0mm (G); make 4
  Rnd 1: 8hdc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (8)
  Rnd 2: ch2, 2hdc in same st you sl st, *2 hdc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (16)
  Rnd 3: ch2, 2hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (24)
  Rnd 4: ch2, 2hdc in same st you sl st, hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (32)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.


ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces in place before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people like to use the yarn in the end from the finish pieces to sew them in place but I personally like to use matching thread).
     Spots…sew them around the beanie between rounds 7 and 14. Space them out about 1.75” apart or play around with the spots and see the position you like them best.
     Eyes…with black felt cut 2 oval shapes. With the white felt cut 2 very small ovals. The black ovals, glue them between round 19 and 23. Space them about 1.5” (approx. 5 stitches). The white ovals glue those on the top center portion of the black ones.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s:chain/s || sc: single crochet || hdc: half double crochet || sl st: slip stitch
sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || st/s: stitch/es || rnd:round || f/o: finish off

Don't forget to like this blog facebook fan page.

Or to follow our Instagram page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Mini, Super & 1-Up Mushrooms and Mario Bros. are copyright by Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (November 2013). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Nabbit from Super Mario Bros. U

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 8"height

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Purple (75yds), Gold (22yds), Black (27yds), White (18yds) & Beige (41yds)

*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Fiberfill

*2 Black buttons or Safety Eyes (14mm)

*White Fabric (10.75” by 12.5”)

*Felt: Red, Gray & Light Brown

*Tapestry Needle

*Matching Thread

*Hot Glue

 
PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There is no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first sc, not on top of the chain 1.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Other side of the foundation chains - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

HEAD/BODY with purple
  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (18)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (30)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (36)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (42)

  Rnd 8-26: sc in each st around (42)

Start stuffing the head/body moderately firm.

  Rnd 27: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog around (36)

  Rnd 28: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog around (30)

  Rnd 29: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog around (24)

  Rnd 30: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog around (18)

  Rnd 31: sc in next st, sc2tog around (12)

  Rnd 32: sc2tog around (6)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the head/body. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

EARS with purple; make 2

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (16)

  Rnd 4-11: sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 12-14: sc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 9 sts (16)

  Rnd 15-16: sc in each st around (16)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

SHOES with gold; make 2

  Rnd 1: ch7, 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 chs, 4sc on last ch, other side of the foundation chains sc in next 4 chs, 2sc in last ch (16)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next st (20)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 7 sts, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, sc in next 7 sts (22)

  Rnd 4: working in the back loops for this rnd only sc in each st around (22)

  Rnd 5: sc in each st around (22)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts (20)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sts, *sc2tog* repeat from * to * 3 more times, sc in next 6 sts (16)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 5 sts, *sc2tog* repeat from * to * 2 more times, sc in next 5 sts (13)

  Rnd 9: sc in each st around (13)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Stuff the shoes moderately firm.

LEGS with black; make 2

ch 11, join with a sl st to form a ring

  Rnd 1: sc in each st around (11)

  Rnd 2: *sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st* repeat from * to * 1 more time, sc in last 3 sts (13)

  Rnd 3-8: sc in each st around (13)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Suff the legs moderately firm.

GLOVES with white; make 2

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (18)

  Rnd 4-6: sc in each st around (18)

  Rnd 7: sc in next st, sc2tog around (12)

  Rnd 8: working in the front loops for this rnd only sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 9: sc in each st around (12)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. 

ARMS with black; make 2

  Rnd 1: attach yarn to the back loops from round 8 of the gloves sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 2-11: sc in each st around (12)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Stuff the arms and gloves moderately firm.

EYES with white; make 2

  Rnd 1: 7hdc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (7)

  Rnd 2: ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in same st you sl st, 2hdc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (14)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

BAGGY with beige

  Rnd 1: 8hdc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: 2hdc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 3: hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 4: hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st around (32)

  Rnd 5-10: hdc in each st around (32)

  Rnd 11: hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog around (24)

  Rnd 12-18: hdc in each st around, join to the next st with the invisible join (24)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Stuff the baggy halfway and with an 18” strand tie it around the baggy.


ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
     TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
     EARS...do not stuff them. The hdc section goes on the front, which helps the ears bent backward. Sew them between rounds 2 and 6.

     SHOES & LEGS...if you have not already, stuff them moderately firm. Sew the leg part that has 11 stitches onto the shoe. Place the legs on the bottom part of the body between rounds 1 and 4.

     EYES...sew the black buttons in the middle of the eyes. If you are using safety eyes, secure those in the center of the eyes. Place the eyes between rounds 7 and 13; approx. 0.50" apart.
     HANDKERCHIEF...follow the steps below. Tie the handkerchief right beneath the eyes.

     MOUTH...cut an oval shape in red felt. Make another smaller oval with gray felt. Cut out a zigzag in gray felt. Place them like in the pictures below. The gray oval needs to be tilted a bit. Glue them in place.

     ARMS...if you have not already, stuff them moderately firm. Flatten the open part of the arm and sew it close. Place the arms to round 17 of the body. The right arm should be facing down. The left arm should be facing up since he is holding a baggy.

     BAGGY...use the template below. Trace it on a light brown felt and cut out the shape. Place it in the center of the baggy.

     Sew the baggy onto the left arm.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet

hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together || rnd: round || sc: single crochet

sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook fan page.

Or to follow our Instagram page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Nabbit and Mario Bros. are copyrighted by Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (May 2013). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Waddlewing from Super Mario Bros. U

 By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 6"height x 3.5"length not including wings (9"length wings extended)

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 2.5mm & 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Gold (59yds), Beige (73yds), Brown (37yds), & Red (7yds)

*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Fiberfill

*2 Pipe Cleaners

*Felt: White & Black
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There's no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first sc, not on top of the chain 1.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Other side of the foundation chains - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

HEAD with gold; 3.5mm (E)

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (18)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (30)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (36)

  Rnd 7-8: sc in each st around (36)

  Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (42)

  Rnd 10-11: sc in each st around (42)

  Rnd 12: *2sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 18 sts* repeat from * to * 1 more time (46)

  Rnd 13: *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 18 sts* repeat from * to * 1 more time (50)

Start stuffing the head moderately firm.

  Rnd 14: sc in each st around (50)

  Rnd 15: *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sts* repeat from * to * 1 more time (46)

  Rnd 16: *sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sts* repeat from * to * 1 more time (42)

  Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog around (36)

  Rnd 18: sc in each st around (36)

F/O, secure and weave in ends. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the head nicely.

BODY with beige; 3.5mm (E)

  Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (32)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (40)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (48)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (56)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 25 sts, 2sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 25 sts (60)

  Rnd 9: sc in each st around (60)

  Rnd 10: sc in next 25 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 25 sts (64)

  Rnd 11: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 50 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts (62)

  Rnd 12: *sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sc in the last 2 sts (54)

Start stuffing the body moderately firm.

  Rnd 13: sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts around (48)

  Rnd 14-15: sc in each st around (48)

  Rnd 16: sc in next 18 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sts (46)

  Rnd 17: sc in each st around (46)

  Rnd 18: sc in next 19 sts, *sc2tog* repeat from * to * 4 more times, sc in next 19 sts (42)

  Rnd 19: sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts around (36)

  Rnd 20: sc in each st around (36)

  Rnd 21: sc in next 13 sts, hdc in next 10 sts, sc in next 13 sts, join to the next st with the invisible join (36)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the body nicely.

EARS with gold, make 2; 3.5mm (E)

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (6)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (8)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (10)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (12)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (14)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st around (16)

  Rnd 8: sc in each st around,  join to the next st with the invisible join (16)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

EAR SPOTS with beige, make 2; 2.5mm

  Row 1: ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 2: sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch1, turn (3)

  Row 3: sc in each st, ch1, turn (3)

  Row 4: sc2tog, sc in next st, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 5: sc2tog (1)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. 

SIDE thing that goes around the face with beige; 3.5mm (E)

  Row 1: ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 2-9: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 10: 2sc in next st, sc in next st, sc2tog, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 11: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 12: sc2tog, sc2tog, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 13-17: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 18: 2sc in next st, sc in next st, ch1, turn (3)

  Row 19: sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 20-23: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 24: sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, ch1, turn (3)

  Row 25: sc in next st, sc2tog, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 26-32: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (2)

  Row 33: 3sc in next st, sc in next st, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 34: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 35: 2sc in next st, sc in next st, sc2tog, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 36-43: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (4)

  Row 44: ch1, sl st all the way around the piece

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

LEFT CHEEK with gold; 3.5mm (E)

  Rnd 1: ch10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 chs, hdc in next ch, 3hdc in next ch other side of the foundation chains hdc in next 4 chs, sc in next 4 chs (19)

  Rnd 2: sl st in the next 7 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, sl st in next 4 sts (21)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. 

RIGHT CHEEK with gold; 3.5mm (E)

  Rnd 1: ch10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 chs, hdc in next 4 chs, 3hdc in next ch other side of the foundation chains hdc in next ch, sc in next 7 chs (19)

  Rnd 2: sl st in next 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sl st in next 7 sts (21)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

Note: when you see a + sign it means all those stitches are supposed to be done in that one particular stitch.

NOSE with red, 3.5mm

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (9)

  Rnd 3: sc+hdc+sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts around (15)

  Rnd 4: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, join to the next st with the invisible join (18)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. 

FEET with brown, make 2; 3.5mm (E)

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in next st around (12)

  Rnd 3: *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st* repeat from * to * 1 more time (16)

  Rnd 4-8: sc in each st around (16)

Stuff moderately firm while shaping.

  Row 1: flatten and match up the sts, sc through the sts, ch1, turn (8)

  Row 2: sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (6)

  Row 3: sc in each st across (6)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. 

WING make 2: one in beige & one in gold; 3.5mm (E)

  Row 1: ch37, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch1, turn (36)

  Row 2: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (36)

  Row 3: sc in next st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc til last 5 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch1, turn (32)

  Row 4-5: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (32)

  Row 6: sc in next st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc til last 5 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch1, turn (28)

  Row 7-8: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (28)

  Row 9: sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc til last 5 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch1, turn (24)

  Row 10-14: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (24)

  Row 15: sc2tog, sc2tog, sc til last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, ch1, turn (20)

  Row 16: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (20)

For the beige wing, change to gold now

  Row 17: sc all the way around the piece and put 2sc in each corner

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

HANDS with brown; 3.5mm (E)

  Rnd 1: ch11, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 chs, 3sc in next ch other side of the foundation chains sc in next 8 chs, 2sc in next ch (22)

  Rnd 2-7: sc in each st around (22)

  Rnd 8: *sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog* repeat 1 more time(20)

  Rnd 9: *sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog* repeat 1 more time (18)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TAIL with gold; 3.5mm (E)

  Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: sc in each st around (8)

  Rnd 3: 2sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 4: sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 5: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 6-16: sc in each st around (24)

  Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog around (18)

  Rnd 18-20: sc in each st around (18)

  Rnd 21-24: sc in next st, dc in next 6 sts, sc in next 11 sts (18)

  Rnd 25: sc in each st around (18)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
     TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
     HEAD TO BODY...the part that sticks out the most on the body is the belly portion. The parts that stick out on the head are the cheeks.

     EARS & SIDE PIECE...this next part is like a puzzle. You will need to make the pieces fit with each other. Place the ears between rounds 4 and 8. Do not forget to stuff the ears. The sidepiece will go from ear to ear. Let the ears overlap the sidepiece by a tiny bit.

     CHEEKS...place them between round 12. Slant them a bit downward, they will be overlapping by a tiny bit on the sidepiece. Do not forget to stuff the cheeks since this little guy is really chubby.

     NOSE...place it on round 12 and it will be overlapping the cheeks and side piece. You will want to slightly stuff it while pinning it in place. 

     WINGS...cut the pipe cleaners to fit the wings. Glue or sew them on so they will not move out of place. Do this to both wings. Sew the wings together.

Note: The color of the pipe cleaners do not matter since they will be on the inside and will not be seen.

     WINGS TO THE BODY...sew the wings by 8 stitches on the top portion and 6 on the bottom. As shown in the pictures below.

     FEET...place them between rounds 6 and 9. Only sew the flat part of the foot to the bottom of the body.

     TAIL...if you have not already, stuff the tail moderately firm. Place the tail in the center of the bottom wing. The dc's go outward.

     HANDS...stuff them halfway. You want to put the wing inside the hands and sew them in place. Using brown thread/yarn, follow the steps below to create those fingers. 

     EAR SPOTS...place them in the center of the ears.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet || rnd: round

sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Waddlewing and Mario Bros. are copyrighted by Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (March 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Koopa Paratroopa

He's cute. Isn't he?

  My son had been asking me for awhile to make him the red Koopa with wings; Koopa Paratroopa. I finally got some time to make him and he turn out perfect. The pattern I use for the Koopa was a free pattern courtesy of Lupita Suarez; link to pattern. I just change the parts that where green to red. It's a very well written pattern. :) For the wings I use Melissa Mall pattern; The Golden Snitch. I use a 4.5mm hook for the wings and it turn out to be a perfect size for the Koopa. I love the way it turn out and so does my son. :)

Don't forget to like this blog facebook fan page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Progress in the Cross Stitch Super Mario Bros.

  Here are some pictures of how far along I come in my cross stitch project. I had a little more time in week 4 since my son is in Spring break and I haven't had alot of homework to do with him. We only been going over the syllables and putting words together. Since he needs to be able to read when he graduates from kindergarten.
  Anyways, I don't think in my previous post for this cross stitch project I share the link from where I found the pattern; here's the link.

  As you can see in these images I did a little change in the graph. I took out the two Mario's that where there and I added Spiny there instead.

Keep on reading my blog to see how this turns out.
Remember to click the follow me button.

Have a wonderful day. :)

- Janet

Progress in the Cross Stitch Super Mario Bros.

  I found this amazing 8-bit graph of Mario Brothers that I wanted to do for my son. I was considering crocheting it but it's 150 x 200. That's a whole lot of granny squares that I would need to make so I decide to go with cross stitch since I figure it might be less time consuming but who knows since I never cross stitch before this is my first time. So far I gotta say that it's really easy but I don't have a lot of time in my hands to be cross stitching all day. Let's see how long this is going to take. :)

  I am going to be making some changes in the graph like instead of putting Nintendo I want to put my son's name. I need to search 8-bit letters and hopefully I find some nice cursive letters.

Keep on reading my blog to see how this turns out.

Have a wonderful day. :)

- Janet

Spiny Egg

By JC Designs

SIZE
It can be modify to be as big as you want it. Just add some extra increase rounds.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 3.5mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Red
*Felt: White
*Fiberfill
*Tapestry Needle
*Hot Glue (optional)

PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

EGG  (red)
  Rnd 1: 8sc in a magic ring (8)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in next sc around (16)
  Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (16)
  Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around (8)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the egg nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY:
  This is real easy to assemble. All you need to do now is cut small squares from white felt and fold them into triangles. Glue them in the egg.

- Janet

Spiny Egg and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (February 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Yoshi Beanie (knit)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

Yellow Yoshi from New Super Mario Bros. Wii

  My other nephew ask me to make him a beanie but with Yoshi. I decide to create a pattern for it since I found none and well here it is for you to make. (Note: I made the pattern today. I still haven't made the beanie so theirs no picture but once I finish it I would uploaded here. Picture up.)
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterwards; the choice is yours. (I duplicate stitch mine. It's really simple to do.)

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
age 5 - adult

MATERIALS
*Double pointed Needles: 3.0mm & 3.75mm
*50g of Main Color (worsted weight)
*Small amounts of the following (worsted weight): Green, White, Black,Orange & Red
*Tapestry Needle

Link to PDF File

Note: The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Hope you enjoy your new beanie. ☺
- Janet Carrillo

Yoshi and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (November 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Frog Mario Beanie (knit)

By JC Designs

  Just a few days ago I finish knitting this Bowser Beanie for my son. It was my second knitting project, I think it looks amazing. One of my nephews saw my son's Bowser beanie and ask me to make him a beanie but with Frog Mario from Super Mario Bros. 3. I decide to create a pattern for it since I found none and well here it is for you to make. (Note: I made the pattern today. I still haven't made the beanie so theirs no picture but once I finish it I would uploaded here. Picture up.)
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterwards; the choice is yours. (I duplicate stitch mine. It's really simple to do.)

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
age 5 - adult

MATERIALS
*Double pointed Needles: 3.0mm & 3.75mm
*50g of Main Color (worsted weight)
*Small amounts of the following (worsted weight): Green, White, Black, Beige
*Tapestry Needle

Link to PDF File

Note: The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Hope you enjoy your new beanie. ☺
- Janet Carrillo

Frog Mario and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (November 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.