Round Plush Fuecoco (Pokemon)

  By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

   For those who love cute things, Fuecoco is the perfect size to hold on to your palm or attach to your bag as a keychain and be your traveling companion. You can also make a small blanket and attach it to make a lovey for your little one.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 3.75"height x 3"length

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Red (38yds), Aran (15yds) & Yellow (1yd)
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds

*8mm Safety Eyes

*Felt: Yellow, White & Black
*Fiberfill
*Tapestry Needle

*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There is no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 You slip stitch on the first sc, not on top of the chain 1.

 When a round or row mentions “around/across” you will be working that whole sequence from that round/row around the entire piece. (EX: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around = sc, inc, sc, inc,…)

SPECIAL STITCHES
Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Other side of the foundation chains - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

HEAD/BODY starting with red
  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, around (39)
  Rnd 8-13: sc in each st around (39)
  Rnd 14: sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog, around, in the last st change to aran (36)

  Rnd 15: sl st in each st around (36)

  Rnd 16: working in the back loops only of the sl st's from rnd 15, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, around (30)

  Rnd 17: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, around (24)
Start stuffing the head/body moderately firm.
  Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, around (18)
  Rnd 19: sc in next st, sc2tog, around (12)
  Rnd 20: sc2tog around (6)
F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the head/body. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

FEET with red, make 2
  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5)
  Rnd 2: *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* repeat from * to * 1 more time, sc in last st (7)
  Rnd 3: working in back loops for this round only sc in each st around (7)
  Rnd 4: sc in each st around (7)

  Rnd 5: hdc in next 3 sts, ch1, sl st in same st as previous
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

ARMS with red, make 2
  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5)
  Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around (5)
  Rnd 4: sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts (4)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TAIL starting with red
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in each st around (4)
  Rnd 3: sc in next st, in last st change to aran, 2sc in next 2 sts, in last st change to red, sc in next st (6)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, in last st change to aran, 2sc in next 2 sts, in last st change to red, sc in next 2 sts (8)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, in last st change to aran, 2sc in next 2 sts, in last st change to red, sc in next 3 sts (10)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sts, in last st change to aran, sc in next 4 sts, in last st change to red, sc in next 3 sts (10)

  Rnd 7: hdc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

SNOUT with red
  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 3hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, 3hdc in next st, sc in next st (10)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, 3hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, join to the 1st st with the invisible join (14)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TOP of the SNOUT with aran
  Row 1: ch8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch1, turn (7)
  Row 2: sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (5)
  Row 3: sc2tog, sc in next st. sc2tog (3)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

THING behind the EYES with aran, make 2
  Row 1: ch5, hdc on 3rd ch, hdc, 4hdc on last ch, other side of the foundations chains hdc in next 2 chs, ch2, sl st in same ch as previous

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TUFT with aran, make 2
  Row 1: ch4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next ch, ch6, hdc on 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sc in next 2 chs, sl st into 1st ch from ch4

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

ASSEMBLE
      I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to assure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).

      TIP...For anything I'll be using felt, I prefer to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.

     TAIL...stuff it lightly. Find the center of the back of the body and match the color changes from the body to the tail.

     FEET...stuff them lightly. From the tail count 8 stitches (the red front loops left unworked from round 14) on each side and place them between rounds 13 and 14.

     ARMS...no need to stuff them. Align them to the feet and place them on rounds 11 and 12.

     SNOUT...lightly stuff it. The hdc's section goes facing downward. Place it between rounds 11 and 13.

     EYES...sew both pieces together by 4 stitches. Place the safety eyes in the position you like best. Sew the piece right above the snout between rounds 6 and 10.

     TOP of the SNOUT...place it above the snout. Sew in place.

     TURF...place it on the top center of the head/body.

     PATCHES...using yellow felt, cut out 2 small rectangles. Place one on the bottom of the snout on round 16. The other goes on top of the tail.

     TEETH...using white felt, cut out 3 small triangles. Place one in the center of the upper jaw and the other two on either side of the lower jaw.

     NOSTRILS...using black felt, cut out 2 small triangles and place them on the upper portion of the snout.

     DETAILS on the FEET...with black embroidery floss or thread. Embroider 2 lines on each foot for his toes.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet || rnd: round || sc: single crochet

sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook page.

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Fuecoco and Pokemon are copyrighted by The Pokemon Company.

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (September 2023). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Round Plush Quaxly (Pokemon)

  By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

     For those who love cute things, Quaxly is the perfect size to hold on to your palm or attach it to your bag as a keychain and be your traveling companion. You can also make a small blanket and attach it to make a lovey for your little one.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 3.25"height x 4"length

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: White (36yds), Turquoise (22yds) & Yellow (2yds)
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds

*8mm Safety Eyes
*Fiberfill

*Embroidery Floss: White
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There is no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first sc, not on top of the chain 1.

 When a round or row mentions “around/across” you will be working that whole sequence from that round/row around the entire piece. (EX: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around = sc, inc, sc, inc,…)

SPECIAL STITCHES
Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Picot Stitch - ch3, insert hook into the 3rd chain from hook, y/o & draw up the yarn through all the loops.

Note: If you are using safety eyes, place them before closing the body between rounds 8 and 9; approx. 5 stitches apart.
HEAD/BODY with white
  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, around (39)
  Rnd 8-13: sc in each st around (39)
  Rnd 14: sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog, around (36)
  Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, around (30)
  Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, around (24)
Start stuffing the head/body moderately firm.
  Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, around (18)
  Rnd 18: sc in next st, sc2tog, around (12)
  Rnd 19: sc2tog around (6)
F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head/body. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

FEET with turquoise, make 2
  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 3sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, around (10)
  Rnd 3: sc in each st around (10)
There's no need to stuff the feet.
  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and *sc in next st, ch2, sl st into 2nd ch, sc in same st, sl st in next st* repeat from * to * 1 more time, sc in last st, ch2, sl st into 2nd st, sc in same st
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

LEFT-WING with white
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st (6)
  Rnd 3: 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st (8)
  Rnd 4: 2sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st (10)
There is no need to stuff the wing.
  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and *picot st, sl st in next st* repeat from * to * 4 more times
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

RIGHT-WING with white
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts (10)
There is no need to stuff the wing.
  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and *picot st, sl st in next st* repeat from * to * 4 more times
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

BEAK with yellow
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: 3sc in next st, sc in next st around (8)
  Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around, join to the 1st st with the invisible join (8)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TUFT underneath beak with white
  Rnd 1: sc, hdc, ch2, hdc, sc, ch1, sl st in magic ring
Pull as tightly as possible so there's no hole showing through.
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

CREST with turquoise

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 16 sts, dc in next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts (30)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 16 sts, 2dc in next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts (32)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 16 sts, dc in next st, 2dc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, sc in next 12 sts (34)

  Rnd 9: sc in next 16 sts, sc2tog in next 6 sts, sc in next 12 sts (31)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

LONGER TUFT in front of the crest with turquoise

  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5)

  Rnd 2-5: sc in each st around (5)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog (4)

There's no need to stuff the tuft.

  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and sc in each st (2)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

SHORTER TUFT in front of the crest with turquoise

  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5)

  Rnd 2: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog (4)

There's no need to stuff the tuft.

  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and sc in each st (2)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TAIL with white

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: sc in each st around (4)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st (6)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts (8)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).

     FEET...try to find the position you like best. I place mine between rounds 17 and 18; approx. 0.50" apart. Only sew the 2 first rounds from the feet to the body. 
     WINGS...align them with the feet and place them on rounds 10 and 11; 3 stitches between the eyes and the wings. Only sew the top portion leaving the rest of the wing unsown so he can flap around.

     BEAK...there's no need to stuff it. Place it in the center of the eyes between rounds 10 and 11.

     TUFT underneath the beak...place it underneath the beak on round 12. The rounded part goes facing down and the flat side upward. Only sew the flat side.

     TAIL...if you haven't already, stuff it lightly. Find the center of the back of the body and place it between rounds 14 and 16. Make sure that the part with the increases is facing downwards.

     CREST...stuff it lightly. In the section where we made the dc's (the part that's sticking out), face it towards the left side. The crest will be placed up to round 5.

     Using white embroidery floss/thread/yarn, embroider a curvy line like a wave in the front center of the crest on round 7.

     LONG and SHORT TUFT...place them in the center and on round 9 of the crest. The shorter tuft goes behind the longer tuft.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet || rnd: round

sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es

y/o: yarn over

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook page.

Or follow us on Instagram. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Quaxly and Pokemon are copyrighted by The Pokemon Company.

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (September 2023). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Mini Sea Turtle

 By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

   For those who love cute things, this little sea turtle is the perfect size to hold onto your palm or attach it to your bag as a keychain and be your traveling companion.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 3"length x 2.75"width

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 2.25mm (B)
*Sport Weight Yarn: Tea Leaf (15yds) & Light Brown (7yds)
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds

*2 Safety Eyes (6mm)

*Fiberfill
*Tapestry Needle

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There's no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 When a round or row mentions “around/across” you will be working that whole sequence from that round/row around the entire piece. (EX: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around = sc, inc, sc, inc,…)

TOP SHELL with light brown

  Rnd 1: 10sc in magic ring (10)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (20)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (30)

  Rnd 4: sc in each stitch around (30)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (40)

  Rnd 6: sc in each st around (40)

  Rnd 7: front loops for this round only, sc in each st around (40)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

BOTTOM SHELL with tea leaf

  Rnd 1: 10sc in magic ring (10)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (20)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (30)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (40)

  Rnd 5: sc in each st around (40)

F/O, leave a long tail for sewing.

Note: If you are using safety eyes, place them before closing the head between rounds 3 and 4; approx. 5 stitches apart.

HEAD with tea leaf

  Rnd 1: 10sc in magic ring (10)

  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (15)

  Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around (15)

  Rnd 5: sc in next st, sc2tog, around (10)

  Rnd 6-7: sc in each st, around (10)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Stuff moderately firm. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

TAIL with tea leaf

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: sc in each st around (4)

  Rnd 3: 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts (5)

F/O, leave a tail for sewing

FLIPPERS with tea leaf; make 4

  Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 3: sc in each st around (16)

There is no need to stuff the flippers.

  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and sc in the next 8 sts across

F/O, leave a long tail to sew onto the bottom shell. 

ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
  HEAD...attach the last round to the bottom shell.

  TAIL...there's no need to stuff the tail. Sew onto the bottom shell, opposite from the head.

  FLIPPERS...place them along the bottom shell in the position you like best.

  Place both back ends facing each other and begin sewing the pieces together. Going through the back loops of the top shell and both loops of the bottom. Before you completely close it off, add fiberfill.

GLOSSARY:

f/o: finish off || rnd: round || sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || st/s: stitch/es

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook page.

Or follow us on Instagram. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (August 2023). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Luigi/Mario Beanie (knit)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

    Simple but yet very stylish; for boys of all ages. You can comfortably wear it during any season depending on the yarn you used and the weather, of course. This is an easy to knit beanie if you know the basics knit, purl and k2tog.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
Child (3yrs - 10yrs) [19" to 21.5" head circumference]
Teen [20.5" to 22.5" head circumference]
Adult [21.5" to 23" head circumference]

MATERIALS
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Main Color & small amounts of Black, Green, Blue, Yellow, Beige, White and Gray
*DPN's or Circular Needles: 4.0mm & 4.5mm
*Stitch Marker to mark your rounds
*Tapestry Needle

GAUGE
Using 4.5mm needles... 9 stitches x 12 rows = 2"
Don't forget to check your gauge.

PATTERN NOTES
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterward; the choice is yours. Here's a great video on how to duplicate stitch; HERE.

  Change the green to red to turn it into Mario.

STARTING the BEANIE

CO 80 (90, 100) sts on 4.0mm needles with main color yarn.

Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.

Do ribbing (k1, p1) for 1 inch (approx.. 7 rounds).

Change to larger needles and proceed in knitting for 4.25 (5, 5.50) inches. This will give you 29 (34, 39) rounds. Please follow the graph to know in which rows to do the color changes.

SHAPING the CROWN

  Row 1: k8, k2tog around

  Row 2 and all even rows: knit around

  Row 3: k7, k2tog around

  Row 5: k6, k2tog around

  Row 7: k5, k2tog around

  Row 9: k4, k2tog around

  Row 11: k3, k2tog around

  Row 13: k2, k2tog around

  Row 15: k1, k2tog around

  Row 17: k2tog around

  Row 19: k2tog around

Leave a tail (up to 8"). You will use a tapestry needle to thread the tail through the last remaining stitches on your needle. After that remove the needles from the stitches and pull tightly to close the top hole. Lastly, hide the tail inside and weave it in.

Note: Click on image to enlarge and print out.
The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Child size is up to the dark blue line.
Teen size is up to the dark orange line.
Adult size is the full graph.

GLOSSARY:

CO: cast on || k: knit || p: purl || k2tog: knit 2 stitches together

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook page.

Or to follow our Instagram page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

 Luigi and Mario are copyright by Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (March 2023). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Easy Crochet Knit-Like Beanie

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!

     Slouchy beanies are really trendy among teenagers, as well as adults. I truly hope that this beanie grabs your attention and gets a top place in your collection of beanies. You can comfortably wear it during any season depending on the yarn you used and the weather, of course.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
This beanie fits someone with a head circumference of...
21" to 23" (adult/women) and
22" to 24" (adult/male).

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (E) & 5.0mm (H)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: color of choice (155yds)
*Tapestry Needle

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.

Easily Customizable... chain any number of chains + 2.

  If you want to make your beanie more slouchy, add more chains to your foundation chain or less for a non-slouchy look.

  To fit a child, simply do less rows and chains but always end with a row 2.

How to crochet on the 3rd loop of the hdc stitch?
As you have seen in the picture below, theirs a “third” loop in the half double crochet stitch. In addition, the two main loops (the V on the top of each stitch which is referred to as the front loop and back loop). By crocheting into the third loop, you will be pushing the top V (the front and back loops) forward. This will make it look a lot like knitting. At least on the right side of your project.

BEANIE

  Row 1 [RS]: ch40, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in the next 32 chs, sc in next ch, sl st in next 4 chs, ch1, turn (38)

  Row 2 [WS]: front loops for the following 5 sts, sl st in next 4 chs, sc in next st, 3rd loops for the rest of the row, hdc in each st across, ch2, turn (38)

  Row 3 [RS]: back loops only for this row hdc in next 32 sts, sc in next st, sl st in next 4 sts, ch1, turn (38)

Repeat row 2 and 3 until you reach the desired width. Finished the beanie with a row 2. The beanie shown here consists of 46 rows.

Do NOT finish off.

Slip stitch the edges together, we will be going through the back loop from the piece on your hook and both loops of the foundation chains.

After you have slip stitch the side up, we will sc2tog around the top using a 3.5mm (E) hook and only going through every other stitch.

F/O, leave a long tail. Weave the yarn back and forth through stitches around top. Pull tight to cinch the opening closed. Weave in the ends.

Would you like to make the matching scarf?

Pattern --> HERE.

 

GLOSSARY:

ch/s:chain/s || hdc: half double crochet || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es || f/o: finish off

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (February 2023). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.