Cupcake Applique

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

Ideas on how to use these appliques...
*These would be great to apply to any project.
*You can add them to kitchen towels,
*turn them into a keychain or fridge magnet.
*You can also make several and make a garland.
*Attach a ribbon to make them into bookmarks.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
Length from bottom to cherry approx. 2.75”
Width from its widest point approx. 2.75"
...but they can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 2.5mm (B) & 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted weight yarn: Beige (5yds), Red (1yd) & any other color of choice (4yds)
*Tapestry Needle

PATTERN NOTES
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 The chain in the beginning does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.

The left one was made as stated in pattern and the right one was made with a 2.5mm hook. 

BOTTOM PART with beige; 3.5mm hook
  Row 1: ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch2, turn (6)
  Row 2: 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st, ch2, turn (8)
  Row 3: 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts, 2hdc in next st, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 4: sc in each st across (10)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

FROSTING (top part) with color of choice; 3.5mm hook
Attach yarn where we left off
  Row 1: 2sc in first st, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 2: sc in each st across, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 3: sk 1st st, sc in 2nd st, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 4: sk 1st st, sc in 2nd st, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 5: sk 1st st, sc in 2nd st, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 6: sk 1st st, sc in 2nd st, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 7: sk 1st st, sc in 2nd st, dec2tog, ch1, turn (2)
Don’t F/O; continue by following the steps from the picture below. Arrows are an indication where to do the stitches. Follow step 1 - 5. F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

CHERRY with red; 2.5mm hook
  Rnd 1: ch2, dc, 2sc, 1dc, 2sc, 2dc into the magic ring
Pull as tightly as possible so no hole is showing through.
F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Sew it on top of the frosting.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s:chain/s || sc: single crochet || hdc: half double crochet || dc: double crochet || sk: skip
st/s: stitch/es || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || rnd: round || f/o: finish off

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (July 2013). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

Tunisian Make-Up Baggy

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

You can either use it as a clutch or a make-up baggy. :)

SIZE
Approx.width 6.75" by length 4.5" but can vary depending on hook size and yarn weight.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (Does not need to be a tunisian crochet hook a simple hook will do just tie a rubber band at the end. See image below.)
*Fingering weight yarn
*Fabric - 9" by 9"
*7" zipper
*Charm to dangle off your clutch
*Tapestry needle
*Sewing needle
*Matching thread
*Measuring tape

GAUGE
width 6sts = 1" and length 6 sts = 1"

If you don't own a Tunisian crochet hook, then simply tie a rubber band several times at the end of your hook and Voila. :)

A site and videos on how to Tunisian Crochet
-An Introduction to Tunisian Crochet by crochetme.com; it has images to show you how to while you're reading. Great site, this is the one I use to learn.
-If your more of a visual person then this video is great for you.
-To bind off your work watch this video.

Tips
-On the basics tutorial video, it says for the last stitch of the forward pass, put the hook through the two end stitches. Cause if you don't and when its time to sew them together the edges are gonna look holey. Just in case this happens to you. Simply use the same color thread and sew it so it wont look so obvious.
-Right side always faces you. Theirs no need to ever turn your work unless stated to do so.
-Each row consist of two parts: a forward part and return part.
-Measure! Measure! Measure! You don't want your piece to look uneven.

LET'S BEGIN CROCHETING
ch 43
Do 42 rows and then bind off your work using the instructions from the link of the video I posted above.
F/O and weave in ends.
Keeping the right side facing you, attach yarn where we did the bind off and sc in each sc, ch1, turn. Do 1 more row of sc. This row should end with the wrong side facing you. ch1, turn, *hdc in next 5sts, 5hdc in the next st* repeat all the way across.
F/O and weave in ends.
Keeping the right side facing you, attach yarn on the foundation row and sc in each sc, ch1, turn. Do 1 more row of sc. This row should end with the wrong side facing you. ch1, turn, *hdc in next 5sts, 5hdc in the next st* repeat all the way across.
F/O and weave in ends.


ASSEMBLY
     Now you want to steam your piece. This helps the edges look smooth, not roll in and evens it out. I use my iron since it has a steam option (if yours doesn't have that option then ironing the piece should also work). Place a towel underneath your crochet piece and place pins to keep it in place. Fold the towel in half. Begin steaming/ironing for about a minute or less. Let it cool completely before taking the pins out.
      Now that it has completely cool, you'll need a fabric piece thats slightly bigger. The reason its bigger than the piece we crochet it's cause you want to double fold the hem so the fabric wont come undone. You want to sew the fabric and zipper on the back part of your work. This would be the lining.

     Now that we finish sewing the fabric and zipper on, sew the sides together. I use whip stitch to sew the sides.

      All we need to do now is add something cute to dangle from your clutch. I put my charm where we did the rows of single crochet but of course you can put yours where ever you like.

I bought these for only a $1 at a local store. They had so many cute little charms and everything you need to make them. I spent about 20 minutes browsing and trying to decide what to buy. :)

Don't forget to like this blog facebook fan page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (June 2013). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the page but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute the pattern.

Monkey Rattle

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

  This Monkey Rattle Pattern can be purchase in my etsy shop for a very low price of $2.00.
  This sweet little monkey rattle will entertain your little one. You can either make it for boy/girl. Use the colors that you like you best. ｡◕‿◕｡
  Rattles provide a source of stimulation. Babies like the sounds they are hearing and with their eyes they try to follow the path of the rattle as it is shaken back and forth. Of course they provide entertainment too. :)

>> Link to the listing <<

Don't forget to like this blog facebook fan page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (May 2013). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the page but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute the pattern.

Nabbit from Super Mario Bros. U

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 8"height

...but can vary based on yarn and hook size.

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Purple (75yds), Gold (22yds), Black (27yds), White (18yds) & Beige (41yds)

*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Fiberfill

*2 Black buttons or Safety Eyes (14mm)

*White Fabric (10.75” by 12.5”)

*Felt: Red, Gray & Light Brown

*Tapestry Needle

*Matching Thread

*Hot Glue

 
PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There is no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first sc, not on top of the chain 1.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Other side of the foundation chains - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

HEAD/BODY with purple
  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (18)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (30)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (36)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st around (42)

  Rnd 8-26: sc in each st around (42)

Start stuffing the head/body moderately firm.

  Rnd 27: sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog around (36)

  Rnd 28: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog around (30)

  Rnd 29: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog around (24)

  Rnd 30: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog around (18)

  Rnd 31: sc in next st, sc2tog around (12)

  Rnd 32: sc2tog around (6)

F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing need it to finish shaping the head/body. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

EARS with purple; make 2

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (16)

  Rnd 4-11: sc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 12-14: sc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 9 sts (16)

  Rnd 15-16: sc in each st around (16)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

SHOES with gold; make 2

  Rnd 1: ch7, 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 chs, 4sc on last ch, other side of the foundation chains sc in next 4 chs, 2sc in last ch (16)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next st (20)

  Rnd 3: sc in next 7 sts, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, sc in next 7 sts (22)

  Rnd 4: working in the back loops for this rnd only sc in each st around (22)

  Rnd 5: sc in each st around (22)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts (20)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sts, *sc2tog* repeat from * to * 3 more times, sc in next 6 sts (16)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 5 sts, *sc2tog* repeat from * to * 2 more times, sc in next 5 sts (13)

  Rnd 9: sc in each st around (13)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Stuff the shoes moderately firm.

LEGS with black; make 2

ch 11, join with a sl st to form a ring

  Rnd 1: sc in each st around (11)

  Rnd 2: *sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st* repeat from * to * 1 more time, sc in last 3 sts (13)

  Rnd 3-8: sc in each st around (13)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Suff the legs moderately firm.

GLOVES with white; make 2

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st around (18)

  Rnd 4-6: sc in each st around (18)

  Rnd 7: sc in next st, sc2tog around (12)

  Rnd 8: working in the front loops for this rnd only sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 9: sc in each st around (12)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. 

ARMS with black; make 2

  Rnd 1: attach yarn to the back loops from round 8 of the gloves sc in each st around (12)

  Rnd 2-11: sc in each st around (12)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Stuff the arms and gloves moderately firm.

EYES with white; make 2

  Rnd 1: 7hdc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (7)

  Rnd 2: ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in same st you sl st, 2hdc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (14)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

BAGGY with beige

  Rnd 1: 8hdc in magic ring (8)

  Rnd 2: 2hdc in each st around (16)

  Rnd 3: hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st around (24)

  Rnd 4: hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st around (32)

  Rnd 5-10: hdc in each st around (32)

  Rnd 11: hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog around (24)

  Rnd 12-18: hdc in each st around, join to the next st with the invisible join (24)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends. Stuff the baggy halfway and with an 18” strand tie it around the baggy.


ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).
     TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
     EARS...do not stuff them. The hdc section goes on the front, which helps the ears bent backward. Sew them between rounds 2 and 6.

     SHOES & LEGS...if you have not already, stuff them moderately firm. Sew the leg part that has 11 stitches onto the shoe. Place the legs on the bottom part of the body between rounds 1 and 4.

     EYES...sew the black buttons in the middle of the eyes. If you are using safety eyes, secure those in the center of the eyes. Place the eyes between rounds 7 and 13; approx. 0.50" apart.
     HANDKERCHIEF...follow the steps below. Tie the handkerchief right beneath the eyes.

     MOUTH...cut an oval shape in red felt. Make another smaller oval with gray felt. Cut out a zigzag in gray felt. Place them like in the pictures below. The gray oval needs to be tilted a bit. Glue them in place.

     ARMS...if you have not already, stuff them moderately firm. Flatten the open part of the arm and sew it close. Place the arms to round 17 of the body. The right arm should be facing down. The left arm should be facing up since he is holding a baggy.

     BAGGY...use the template below. Trace it on a light brown felt and cut out the shape. Place it in the center of the baggy.

     Sew the baggy onto the left arm.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet

hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together || rnd: round || sc: single crochet

sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es

Don't forget to like this blog's Facebook fan page.

Or to follow our Instagram page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Nabbit and Mario Bros. are copyrighted by Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (May 2013). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.