Round Plush Quaxly (Pokemon)

  By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"

     For those who love cute things, Quaxly is the perfect size to hold on to your palm or attach it to your bag as a keychain and be your traveling companion. You can also make a small blanket and attach it to make a lovey for your little one.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
approx. 3.25"height x 4"length

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.5mm (E)
*Worsted Weight Yarn: White (36yds), Turquoise (22yds) & Yellow (2yds)
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds

*8mm Safety Eyes
*Fiberfill

*Embroidery Floss: White
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread

PATTERN NOTES - must-read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There is no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first sc, not on top of the chain 1.

 When a round or row mentions “around/across” you will be working that whole sequence from that round/row around the entire piece. (EX: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around = sc, inc, sc, inc,…)

SPECIAL STITCHES
Invisible join - this VIDEO explains how to do this technique.

Picot Stitch - ch3, insert hook into the 3rd chain from hook, y/o & draw up the yarn through all the loops.

Note: If you are using safety eyes, place them before closing the body between rounds 8 and 9; approx. 5 stitches apart.
HEAD/BODY with white
  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, around (39)
  Rnd 8-13: sc in each st around (39)
  Rnd 14: sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog, around (36)
  Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, around (30)
  Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, around (24)
Start stuffing the head/body moderately firm.
  Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, around (18)
  Rnd 18: sc in next st, sc2tog, around (12)
  Rnd 19: sc2tog around (6)
F/O and leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head/body. Weave in the tail through the final round and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in the ends.

FEET with turquoise, make 2
  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 3sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, around (10)
  Rnd 3: sc in each st around (10)
There's no need to stuff the feet.
  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and *sc in next st, ch2, sl st into 2nd ch, sc in same st, sl st in next st* repeat from * to * 1 more time, sc in last st, ch2, sl st into 2nd st, sc in same st
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

LEFT-WING with white
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st (6)
  Rnd 3: 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st (8)
  Rnd 4: 2sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st (10)
There is no need to stuff the wing.
  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and *picot st, sl st in next st* repeat from * to * 4 more times
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

RIGHT-WING with white
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts (10)
There is no need to stuff the wing.
  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and *picot st, sl st in next st* repeat from * to * 4 more times
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

BEAK with yellow
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: 3sc in next st, sc in next st around (8)
  Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around, join to the 1st st with the invisible join (8)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TUFT underneath beak with white
  Rnd 1: sc, hdc, ch2, hdc, sc, ch1, sl st in magic ring
Pull as tightly as possible so there's no hole showing through.
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

CREST with turquoise

  Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 16 sts, dc in next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts (30)

  Rnd 7: sc in next 16 sts, 2dc in next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts (32)

  Rnd 8: sc in next 16 sts, dc in next st, 2dc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, sc in next 12 sts (34)

  Rnd 9: sc in next 16 sts, sc2tog in next 6 sts, sc in next 12 sts (31)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

LONGER TUFT in front of the crest with turquoise

  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5)

  Rnd 2-5: sc in each st around (5)

  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog (4)

There's no need to stuff the tuft.

  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and sc in each st (2)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

SHORTER TUFT in front of the crest with turquoise

  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5)

  Rnd 2: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog (4)

There's no need to stuff the tuft.

  Row 1: flatten to match up the stitches and sc in each st (2)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

TAIL with white

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)

  Rnd 2: sc in each st around (4)

  Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st (6)

  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts (8)

F/O, secure and weave in the ends.

ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people prefer to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I use matching thread).

     FEET...try to find the position you like best. I place mine between rounds 17 and 18; approx. 0.50" apart. Only sew the 2 first rounds from the feet to the body. 
     WINGS...align them with the feet and place them on rounds 10 and 11; 3 stitches between the eyes and the wings. Only sew the top portion leaving the rest of the wing unsown so he can flap around.

     BEAK...there's no need to stuff it. Place it in the center of the eyes between rounds 10 and 11.

     TUFT underneath the beak...place it underneath the beak on round 12. The rounded part goes facing down and the flat side upward. Only sew the flat side.

     TAIL...if you haven't already, stuff it lightly. Find the center of the back of the body and place it between rounds 14 and 16. Make sure that the part with the increases is facing downwards.

     CREST...stuff it lightly. In the section where we made the dc's (the part that's sticking out), face it towards the left side. The crest will be placed up to round 5.

     Using white embroidery floss/thread/yarn, embroider a curvy line like a wave in the front center of the crest on round 7.

     LONG and SHORT TUFT...place them in the center and on round 9 of the crest. The shorter tuft goes behind the longer tuft.

GLOSSARY:

ch/s: chain/s || dc: double crochet || f/o: finish off || hdc: half double crochet || rnd: round

sc: single crochet || sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es

y/o: yarn over

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Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Quaxly and Pokemon are copyrighted by The Pokemon Company.

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (September 2023). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.